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The Twelve Hotel

Named after Connemara’s famous Twelve Bens mountains, this new hotel has brought contemporary fashions to an area known until recently for its quiet, traditional style.

It replaces a long-established hotel and the site has been well-used to create a sense of ample space, even though the building is right on the corner of two roads in Barna village, now a cramped suburb of Galway.

You arrive through a small but quirky reception area, or directly from the car park through a covered seating area to the bar, which is a fine space with couch/seating and fire, and bookshelves full of books including some for children.

The earthy mix of black tables, clay brown walls and wooden flooring is relaxing, and the sense of informality is emphasised by central raised counter-style tables and tall stools set up for parties of up to ten, as well as a spread of tables at normal height.

The Pins bar has earned a great reputation for its food, and menus offer a wide range of appealing dishes, including unusual combinations in both salads and hot dishes, and many items are coeliac friendly.

A very tempting weekend lunch menu is offered in the bar, kicking off with a choice of reviving cocktails. Breads and baked goods and gourmet pizza are a speciality – the in-house bakery and shop is next door.

The stylish guestrooms are quirky, but not at the expense of comfort; six room types are offered, most with separate bath and shower, some with their own cocktail bar; there’s a suite to suit families or friends travelling together, a Funnymoon Suite – and, the ultimate, Suite X11, with open fireplace used as a room divider.

The dark tones continue among the bedrooms which have darkwood floors and subtle alterations of lighting and fabrics to make rooms distinctive from each other.

Large old-fashioned gilt-framed, mirrors are a feature, especially leaning against the walls on the corridors – a design statement that also lends a homely touch.

Conferencing/Banqueting (120/90); free broadband wi/fi. secretarial services, video conferencing. Fully wheelchair accessible; children welcome (under 5s free in parents' room, cots available free of charge, baby sitting arranged); Lift, all day room service. Dogs welcome (charge, stay in bedroom).

Rooms 48 (25 suites, 12 executive, 8 shower only, 22 family, 3 for disabled, all no smoking). B&B €85 pps, ss€30. Closed 2 or 3 days Christmas.

West At The Twelve:

The first floor restaurant, also predominantly black, has a variety of booths with leather banquettes seating, mood lighting from ceiling lights and fat table candles.

The focus is on wine, with wines visible on temperature-controlled racks behind glass and a champagne bar within the room. The restaurant has come on a lot since the Guide’s last visit, shortly after opening - this time our peak season visit was to a restaurant showing healthy maturity under pressure.

Reception and service now have an ease and confidence, totally cutomer focused. Waiter, Kalman, who has been at the hotel since its opening, stands out in an above-average team; his unobtrusive way sets the tone for knowledgeable, attentive service, reflecting the relaxed sophistication throughout the hotel - a singular style that owes much, no doubt, to the management of proprietor Fergus O’Halloran, who is also responsible for the hotel’s exceptional wine list.

The à la carte menu changes regularly and, as before, its straightforward simplicity is appealing; it is reasonably priced and with no cheffy descriptions. Seafood is a strength, of course, but also imaginative vegetarian dishes, mature beef and less usual ingredients such as rabbit.

The evening begins with a complimentary appetiser (a refreshing appetiser shot of pineapple and orange frappé, perhaps), possibly followed half a dozen local oysters or a crab salad, with very rich, fresh crab in a buttery salad.

Main courses might include perfectly cooked fillet of lamb with a lightly spiced musky-tasting couscous timbale, and lovely lamb jus; or scallops and black pudding on mash potato - four plump scallops paired appropriately with gutsy pudding.

Saucing is excellent (but could be more generous) and, accompaniments are good too - a dairy-rich potato gratin and a combination of of steamed broccoli, stuffed tomato and carrot purée, perhaps.

The cooking reaches a new high with desserts including excellent Ice creams and, perhaps, an intensely lemon, lemon tart that shows off the pastry chef’s talent - also evident in superior breads such as. tomato & olive or sesame and bacon.

Since opening in 2007, The Twelve has become a respected rendezvous, an innovative destination with extra attractions such as The Sunday Feast with suckling pig, salads and flambé desserts for €39 and dinner in the kitchen at The Chef’s Table for up to ten people – a gastronomic menu with “sensational” wines.

The West’s wine list has all the hallmarks of dedicated selection by a wine-loving hotelier. The twenty three pages outline in detail and with commentary, a range of wines and beverages across a wide range, subjected to monthly monitoring.

A trademark of The West is wine with or without skins by the glass and bottle, red and white, old and new world, with informative tasting notes. Many areas and grape varieties are represented throughout the list, and trouble has been taken to collect a few rarities such as white Chateauneuf du Pape and a Sicilian white, from the Fiano grape, called Planeta.

Seats 90 (private room, 96; outdoors, 30); children welcome before 7pm; air conditioning; pianist at weekends; D Tue-Sun, 6-10pm (6-9pm Sun); early D €25, 6-7pm only; set 3 course D €30, gourmet menu €125, also a la carte. L Sun only, 12-4; set Sun L €30. House wine €24. Closed Mon. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

At the crossroads in Barna Village 10 mins from Galway City