Whilst the late Tiger’s big paw print is all too obvious at this seaside village, Barna has retained some of its old charm around the harbour area – and its location, handy to both Connemara and Galway City, is a huge attraction. And so is Fergus O’Halloran’s unique hotel which, although only open since 2006, has achieved national recognition thanks to hands-on management and marketing by an inspired proprietor.

Named after Connemara’s Twelve Bens mountains, The Twelve has bravely brought contemporary style to an area known for its traditional appeal. It replaces a long-established hotel and the site has been well-used to create a sense of ample space.

You arrive through a small but quirky reception area, or directly from the car park through a covered seating/smoking area to The Pins Bar, which is a fine, welcoming space with mixed seating including comfortable couches, an open fire, and bookshelves full of books including some for children.

The earthy mix of black tables, clay brown walls and wooden flooring is relaxing, and the sense of informality is emphasised by central raised counter-style tables and tall stools set up for parties of up to ten, as well as a spread of tables at normal height.

The main food focus of the hotel is here in The Pins Bar, where food is served all day from breakfast through lunch and dinner with last orders at 10pm. This busy local and tourist venue is popular for sports on TV and weekend live music sessions, as well as its comprehensive menu. Its reputation for good pizzas and breads, baked in their own bakery, is fully justified.

In addition, the daily menu features fairly priced dishes of interest like Tartlet of Goats’ Cheese, a Wild Mushroom Crêpe and a Tapas Platter for two - and substantial main courses such as Lamb Burger and Roast Sea Trout.

The Guide recently enjoyed a really fine Beef Sandwich on Foccacia bread: thin slices of medium sirloin with onion jam, horseradish cream and salad leaves plus a bowl of chips, for less than a tenner. Portions, including popular desserts such as apple pie and ice cream, are generous. For ampler dining The Pins offers a keenly priced 2/3 course “Shake off the Blues Menu.

This fine, bright cosmopolitan bar offers good levels of service, mainly locally sourced food, and an emphasis on cocktails and “gourmet” beers; it is coeliac friendly and provides a childrens’ menu. There are, however, signs of wear and tear - scuffed table tops, for example, and worn menu cards - which is not surprising given its popularity, but it does rather take the shine off the tone of contemporary chic.

The stylish guestrooms are quirky, but not at the expense of comfort; six room types are offered, most with separate bath and shower, some with their own cocktail bar; there’s a suite to suit families or friends travelling together, a Funnymoon Suite – and, the ultimate, Suite X11, with open fireplace used as a room divider.

The dark tones continue among the bedrooms which have darkwood floors and subtle alterations of lighting and fabrics to make rooms distinctive from each other. Large old-fashioned gilt-framed, mirrors are a feature, especially leaning against the walls on the corridors – a design statement that also lends a homely touch.

Conferencing/Banqueting (120/100); free broadband wi/fi, business centre, secretarial services, video conferencing. Fully wheelchair accessible; children welcome (under 5s free in parents' room, cots available free of charge, baby sitting arranged, kids club); Lift, all day room service. Dogs welcome (charge, stay in bedroom). Spa (jacuzzi, massage, hair dressing).

Rooms 48 (14 suites, 12 executive, 6 shower only, 22 family, 3 disabled, all no smoking). B&B €55-75 pps low-high season, ss €30. Closed 2 or 3 days Christmas.

 West At The Twelve:

The first floor fine dining restaurant, also predominantly black, has a variety of booths with leather banquettes seating, mood lighting from ceiling lights and fat table candles. The focus is on wine, with wines visible on temperature-controlled racks behind glass and a champagne bar within the room.

Reception and service have an ease and confidence, totally customer focused. Restaurant Manager, Kalman Mezzei, who has been at the hotel since its opening, stands out in an above-average team; his unobtrusive way sets the tone for knowledgeable, attentive service, reflecting the relaxed sophistication throughout the hotel - a singular style that owes much, no doubt, to the management of proprietor Fergus O’Halloran, who is also responsible for the hotel’s exceptional wine list.

Winners of the Bord Bia ‘Just Ask’ Restaurant of the Month in November 2009, the motto “True to The Region, True to The Season” sums up a philosophy which can be seen at work in every aspect of the hotel, notably the West à la carte menu.

Its straightforward simplicity is appealing; it is reasonably priced and with no cheffy descriptions. Seafood is a strength, of course, but also imaginative vegetarian dishes, mature beef and less usual ingredients such as rabbit. The menu at West is also a model of consumer information.

Coeliac friendly dishes are highlighted and suppliers are listed, together with a welcome statement on seasonality – which, refreshingly, also encourages guests to ‘Just Ask’ if there are any questions on any product.

The menu kicks off playfully with a choice of imaginative ‘Tapatisers’ offering tasters of delicious local foods such as Oughterard butcher James McGeough’s renowned air-dried lamb; St Tola goat cheese from across the Bay in Co Clare; and wood pigeon from the Dromoland Estate – all of the dozen or so dishes are available at a flat rate of €4.40, or (a recessionary bargain) you get a sociable selection of six at €24 – and, of course, wine mad proprietor Fergus O’Halloran will be only too happy to suggest wine pairings.

West also offers ‘Small Plates’ which include an innovative house salad using ingredients of your choice to be blended for you at the table; an oat-crusted black pudding made in-house by Head Chef Cedric Bottralini, using a traditional recipe from Alsace; and an intriguing ‘Not The Usual Fish Cake’ that lives up to its name by including ingredients such as scallops and crabmeat.

Main courses – described as Large Plates – offer some unusual choices including a game plate, West’s ‘Signature Braised Beef’ (James McGeough beef, cooked for 12 hours) and some delicious locally caught seafood such as Connemara Monkfish & King Scallops; and it is good to see that, not only do they offer Cloonacool Farm Arctic Charr on the menu, but explain briefly what this special fish is - and where it comes from.

And, if you prefer to round off your meal on a savoury note, go for the rather quaintly named ‘Irish Cottage Cheese Menu’ – a well-balanced selection of five of Ireland’s finest artisan cheeses which, unusually, are priced by weight (€3.60 per oz); and they can be accompanied by a ‘Port and dessert wine flight’, ie three tasting shots of a port and two sweet wines.

The West’s wine list has all the hallmarks of dedicated selection by a wine-loving hotelier, outlining in detail and with commentary, a range of wines and beverages across a wide range, subjected to monthly monitoring. A trademark of The West is wine with or without skins by the glass and bottle, red and white, old and new world, with informative tasting notes. Many areas and grape varieties are represented throughout the list, and trouble has been taken to collect a few rarities such as white Chateauneuf du Pape and a Sicilian white, from the Fiano grape, called Planeta.

West Restaurant has come to maturity, with systems working well under pressure at busy times - and, since opening in 2006, The Twelve has become a respected rendezvous, an innovative destination with extra attractions such as dinner in the kitchen at The Chef’s Table for up to ten people – a gastronomic menu with “sensational” wines.

Seats 90 (private room, 96; outdoors, 30); D Tue-Sun, 6-10pm (6-9pm Sun); early D €25, 6-7pm only; set 3 course D €39, also a la carte. L Sun only, 12-4; set Sun L €30. House wine €24. Children welcome before 7pm (high chair, childrens menu, baby changing facilities); air conditioning; pianist at weekends; Restaurant closed Mon & Tue. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

At the crossroads in Barna Village 10 mins from Galway City