Since the mid 1980s West End House has been home to one of Killarney’s best-loved restaurants, and it looks set to stay that way as it was recently taken over by highly regarded restaurateurs Sandra and Peter Dunlea – owners of Miss Courtney’s Tea Rooms in Killarney and The Riverside Restaurant in Kilcullen, Co Kildare – who have given the whole building the most sympathetic of makeovers.
This listed building has a fascinating history and its previous uses include (appropriately) housing one of Ireland’s oldest schools of domestic science, the Killarney School of Houswifery, which was founded here by Lady Kenmare in 1906.
Opting to retain the previous owners’ Tyrolean theme in the downstairs bar - which has a huge feature fireplace in the end wall – sets an atmospheric tone for the series of romantically cottagey rooms that now includes two bars, several dining rooms on two levels and a music venue.
Open fires work their magic throughout, and the décor is a well judged combination of opulence and understated elegance, with quirky modern touches adding a casual contemporary flavour to the old world atmosphere: a wonderful setting for inspired food.
Head chef Ronnie Wolf’s impressive c.v. goes back to time spent with the late great Michael Clifford in his famous Cork restaurant and this classical foundation, plus a generous topping of talent and creativity, shows in imaginative and perfectly cooked dishes that combine the very best ingredients in dishes which may be basically traditional but have unexpected (but never gimmicky) elements that surprise and delight.
Popcorn proves to be more than just an entertaining addition to a tasty starter of rabbit loin in spiced popcorn crust with pear barley and lambs lettuce, for example – and an Café Breakfast Soup works surprisingly well, with cleverly scaled down versions of all the elements of the traditional fry served in a bowl and a flavoursome clear mushroom broth in an accompanying cafetière...
This Killarney restaurants menus change with the seasons and the introduction of original new dishes, but constants include seafood from Castletownbere, Kerry mountain lamb (roast rack, perhaps, served with parsley & honey and local honey & thyme jus) and local beef (typically served with marrowbone and smoked Midleton whiskey sauce).
Game features in season too, notably the local speciality - Killarney venison from nearby Muckross Park (loin, served with red onion jam and parsnip & red wine sauce, for example).
Pretty and pleasingly seasonal desserts are also inclined to have quirky elements, but once again flavour comes first – as it does in the local cheeses, proudly showcased on a Munster Cheese Board.
A thoughtfully selected and informative wine list covers all bases, offering plenty of interesting wines in the €20-30 range as well as treats for the deeper-pocketed. A good range by the glass includes rose, bubbles and dessert wines, and steers clear of the predictable.
Friendly, immaculately attired and well-trained staff provide very professional service, and the relaxed atmosphere may well encourage you to stay on and relax in the upstairs bar for a while after dinner.
A delightful spot, and another great dining destination for Killarney.
Seats 70 (private rooms, 25 & 30). D Thu-Sat 6-10, Sun 4-9. A la carte (Sun Set D €25/35). Closed Mon-Wed.
