Baba’de

Ahmet Dede and Maria Archer share a passion for food, but also a grá for family. They have long wanted to open a sibling to their enormously successful Dede at The Customs House; a place more casual in feel and vibe but without compromising on their signature approach to quality, sourcing, cooking, flavour and presentation.

Dede’s career in West Cork began at The Mews – a small cottage-like restaurant hidden down a narrow laneway. When it closed, and even with the success of Dede at The Customs House, The Mews represented an itch that needed to be scratched. With Dede’s reputation nicely cemented in The Custome House, the opportunity to grab The Mews, renovate it completely inside and out, and open a more casual spot serving incredible food was there for the taking.

Open since August 2024, Baba’de is a small 30-ish seater restaurant with tables located in the main building and a bright but cosy glass-framed extension that opens out into a small, uncovered courtyard where, on those days when the sun prevails, diners can enjoy true al-fresco dining. The layout will be familiar to those who remember The Mews, but the hushed quietness of that has been replaced by an upbeat soundtrack of eclectic pop music and the buzzy rise and fall of good conversation and laughter.

Baba’de is open for Breakfast and Brunch (think Turkish Eggs), but the main draw is the evening service. Walk-ins are welcome, but it is advisable to book ahead if your time in Baltimore is limited, and you don’t want to miss out or chance waiting around. However, Maria and her front of house team work hard to ensure that walk-in guests are seated as quickly as possible.

The menu for the evening service is sectioned into From The Sea (fresh fish and seafood), To The Meadow (meat-based dishes), To The Garden (seasonal vegetables and salads), and Desserts. All dishes are designed for sharing (although some work better than others in this regard), but they would also suit a solo diner or a couple or group with diverse tastes. There are 21 items on the menu in total (including desserts) so there is plenty to choose from for all tastes, preferences and dietary needs.

The signature dish that delivers a wow factor is the Whole West Cork Blue Lobster. The whole of this majestic sea creature is utilised from the tail (beautifully barbecued and glazed) to the claw meat in the accompanying rice dish, to the shell used for the bisque, and a lobster oil drizzled and dotted around. It eats slightly awkwardly as a sharing dish but is beautifully presented and tastes so headily of that addictively deep, rich lobster flavour that this really is but a minor item of note.

Another signature dish is Ali’s Hummus. In Turkey, hummus is eaten with every dish with a little on the side of the plate and taken with different bites of food. In Ireland, we consume hummus differently, so this is an interesting example of a familiar food experiencing a culture clash in how it is approached by the Irish diner. Notwithstanding, the texture, flavour and colours of this hummus make it stand apart from what is often thought of as hummus.

Dishes are delivered to diners by the kitchen team with a summary of how it’s made, and so on. Maria is always on hand checking in on her guests, and towards the end of service, Ahmet takes leave of his kitchen in The Customs House to drop in and meet guests dining in Baba’de with his laid-back conversation style.

The wine list is comprehensive and across sparkling, rosé, white, red, and sweet wines with a good selection available by the glass across all categories, including non-alcoholic wine. Outside of wine, the casual vibe extends to beer, cocktails, mocktails and inventive spritzers, such as the Irish Spritzer made with Valentia Island Vermouth and Kilahora Perry. Children are also catered for with juices and soft drinks.

In truth, at dinner at least, there is less than might be expected (except the à la carte menu and more moderate pricing) to separate the offering at Baba’de from its starry big sister, Dede at The Customs House. The perfect blend of Irish seasonal ingredients, Turkish cookery technique and West Cork hospitality is there in every element from the welcome to the menu to the colourful and tantalising dishes as they are presented before you. The key point of difference lies in the vibe which has exchanged the buttoned-up feel of Dede for a laid-back slacks and linen vibe. Maria Archer and Ahmet Dede have created Baba’de as an ode to their love of family and friends, of gathering and celebration. As stylised and artful as the dishes may be, ultimately this is a menu is filled with favourite things one can imagine being enjoyed around Ahmet’s family table in Turkey. And you are most welcome to join in.