Having moved from their original small but cosy home above The Anchor Bar to a much better location about 50 metres from the gates of the Slieve Donard Hotel, Brunel's may no longer be hidden but it is still a real gem in this famous seaside town.
The lovely two-storey building is painted an attractive darkish blue. Inside it divides into two, with seating on both sides at the front windows and an open kitchen on the right whwre you can see the Owner-Chef, Paul Cunningham, and his team at work.
While far more spacious than the original premises - and open for longer hours - the restaurant has all the trademark atmosphere and quirkiness and, of course, the same theme.
It's named to honour the pioneering Victorian engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel's connections with the town. The link inspires a subtle decorative theme which is both interesting and entertaining - right down to details like 'winch' salt and pepper mills, and 'shackle' napkin rings on tables.
Already well known in the area (and with a reputation well beyond it), Paul has earned a following for creative, ingredients-led cooking and those in the know travel from a wide area to enjoy his flavoursome food.
Daytime is more casual of course but at dinner time, guests are welcomed by Restaurant Manager Fiona Davey or one of her front of house team, and can then to enjoy a treat from the cocktail list, or perhaps one of their speciality whiskeys - you'll notice warmth and efficiency from the start, and the buzz of happy diners enjoying themselves.
Paul values his suppliers and, although menus are not over burdened with names, there is no doubting the quality and you'll find some very good local businesses such as Carnbrook Meats of Dromara and Cornhill duck among those name checked on dishes.
Brunch, served every morning, offers a large or small Ulster Fry, buttermilk pancakes or perhaps, a chorizo cassoulet, served in a bowl with sweet and sour pepper, Parmesan soda bread and topped with a poached egg.
Brunel-inspired cocktails - the Great Eastern, perhaps, or Clifton Suspension - make amusing aperitifs to enjoy while considering menus that are a refreshingly seasonal read and very temptingly, so decisions are hard to make... Local seafood chowder is a house speciality, there may be Jawbox gin cured sea trout among the starters too, also a gorgeous chicken liver parfait, all beautifully partnered with unusual seasonal accompaniments.
Mains may include Cornhill treacle-glazed duck breast and a 10-oz ribeye or sirloin and there’s a good choice of whatever fish and seafood is at its best. And, while the choice for vegetarians may be limited, unusual dishes like rye linguini with broccoli puree, pine nuts, Young Buck blue cheese and charred vegetable crisp.
Desserts are special – think Espresso crème brulee with homemade cookies or a seasonal Armagh Bramley apple crumble.
The cooking is terrific - every dish looks great and, more importantly, is bursting with flavour - and the excellent service and pleasing surroundings create a sense of occasion, so even the lightest meal here will feel like a treat.
All this and good value too - no wonder fans are willing to travel many miles for the pleasure of a meal at Brunel's. Lucky Newcastle to have this gem in the town - and it is open every day, for long hours.
