Just a short scenic drive beyond Castetownbere, near Allihies, Dzogchen Beara offers all of the spiritual supports, activities and events that would be expected of a Tibetan Buddhist retreat centre - but it is also a very beautiful destination for visitors who are simply in search of a cup of tea or coffee and some delicious homemade food, whether or not they have any interest in the temple and its activities.
The story of Dzogchen Beara is well documented on their website, but to the casual visitor the peace and welcoming atmosphere will do its thing anyway - and the location is simply stunning. On a fine day it feels as if there can be no more beautiful place on earth - the ocean, the cliffs, the sky... It's a large property with plenty of space for rambling, but it's well signed both from the road and around the temple area, so first-time visitors will easily find the café. Entered through a small shop area, which mainly offers interesting items relating to the retreat and its philosophy, the cafe has a welcoming display of cakes and goodies - nutty berry cheesecake, lemon polenta cake, chocolate almond cake ... - backed by a simple but quite varied blackboard menu, including plenty of teas, coffees and other drinks, plus freshly baked scones, croissants etc and plenty of healthy options including soup of the day (celery, perhaps, with home baked soda bread), goats cheese salad, quiches and a Wrap of the Day with tortilla chips. Children's and gluten free options are available too - and then there's the big high to follow, as you sit inside or on the terrace, to soak in the view while enjoying this wholesome fare,
So, whether or not you are interested in the spiritual aspect of this Tibetan Buddhist retreat, the stunning clifftop location alone makes it worthwhile to build in a visit when exploring the Beara Peninsula - and, hugging the cliff in tiers to make the most of the view, the cafe's homemade treats and warm welcome to all comers make it very special.
