It may have been five years in the making but wow, did Lucie and Carlos Capparelli's much-anticipated restaurant ever hit the ground running when this gorgeous place finally opened in August 2025.
A restored 18th-century water mill (albeit electric powered and without water these days) makes for a striking centrepiece by any standards, and - although it's handled with a light touch on site - support from the great chef Yotam Ottolenghi, with whom Carlos worked for nearly a decade, was never going to do any harm to the pre-opening familiarisation plan. Which may sound like spin, but that is emphatically not the case here. If ever there was a meticulously planned countdown to the big reveal this was it, and the vision behind the magic is clear to see.
Vibrant, broadly Mediterranean flavours are the order of the day, presented with understated finesse in imaginative dishes, and - both with the lucky locals and the growing numbers who are happy to travel - this is going down extremely well. More surprisingly perhaps, so is an earlier part of the plan that was meant to be temporary: their own brand pasta. Originally intended as a practical stepping stone towards reaching the grand opening, their ever-growing Capparelli Artisan Pasta range has won acclaim at the Blas na hÉireann Irish Food Awards and Great Taste Awards - and is now on sale in speciaity shops and at The Mill, where it is one of the Deli's most popular products.
On arrival you'll find a casual café downstairs (you move through this to the heaven above...) with communal seating and a retail area well packed with local/Irish speciality and deli products - Dart Mountain Cheese and Sheridans crackers, for example - although, surprisingly, there's no obvious mention of these, or others, on menus upstairs in the restaurant. Taken at two large central tables (and available for takeaway as well), the simple café fare is served from an open display offering the likes of tasty Rustic Sandwiches (about £7.95) - Chicken with salad leaves and mustard mayo, perhaps, and seasonal ones like Beetroot with Brie.There are good cakes (Apricot & Polenta, Lemon and Poppyseed, Carrot & Walnut with a dollop of frosting...) and cookies, along with plenty of drinks including great coffeee and some premium carbonated thirst quenchers - here, or out on the terrace, it's a welcoming spot for locals popping in for a bite and a chat.
And then upstairs, where the real magic happens, a large light-filled contemporary dining area with skylights and floor-to-ceiling windows is sheer delight with its view over a lovely bank of wild flowers... A long banquette divides the space neatly and a welcoming bar with a sofa and some seating is just the spot to savour menus that are simple but full of promise - and consideration, too. How many restaurants offer a full gluten-free lunch and dinner menu? Thoughtfully constructed to please a wide ranging clientèle, you'll find delicious renditions of many Mediterreanean and Middle Eastern favourites - but also a kindly nod to local tastes in, for example, a juicyT-bone with Green Peppercorn Sauce and Frites and chicken'n'chips like tyou've never had before in the Rotisserie Half Chicken with Jus Gras, Pink Peppercorn Aioli, Frites & Baby Gem... Snacks and small plates like Hummus with Pumpkin Seeds & Sweet Chill or Charred Beetroot Tahini, Hazelnut Dukkah arte especially vegetarian-friendly and the sheer quality and freshness of ingredients comes through in every mouthful, with dressings just sharp enough to lift the leaves in House Salad, for example, which comes with Pickled Shallots and Pomegranate Vinaigrette. Then there's their famous Pasta, each with its distinctive flavours in, for example, proper Rigatoni or Papardelle with a richj, slow cooked shin ragu, topped with shards of Grana Padano.
Whether it's the bread (crusty, soft inside) the Dipping oil (beautiful green olive oil, subtle and fresh) or Burratta with Fermented Plums this is comfort food with a luxury touch - and the space (aided by terrific service from well trained staff and a great drinks offering) creates a sense of theatre and encourages diners to dress up a bit and enjoy the show.
All round this is just a really satisfying place to be. Everything about the re-purposing of the old buildings and their surrounding is carefully thought through, with no compromise on quality, even down to the thoughtfully built loos with their designer Belfast sinks, copper pipes, toiletries, air driers, and spacious disabled facilities.
Although initially prompted by the pandemic and its impact on their young family, it must now seem to Belfast-born Lucie and her husband Carlos Capparelli' that their return from key roles in London hospitality was simply meant to be. And how lucky is Northern Ireland that this was their choice.
