A welcome new arrival in the former Pilgrims premises on the square, Jack Bell - chef-proprietor of the eponymous Jacks - is originally from Cornwall, although his family lineage stretches back to five generations of proud Yorkshireman fish curers and merchants and he says that fish has always been a passion for him. Bell comes with extensive experience working in fine dining kitchens around the UK and France, and he is a seasoned restaurateur to boot, latterly in Essex, before opting for a radical change of scenery and landing into West Cork.
The quality and variety of produce on his doorstep, in the picturesque market town of Rosscarbery, has clearly enchanted him, and he is revelling in the opportunity to use as much of it on his menus as possible. West Cork Eggs, Allshire’s Rosscarbery beef, bacon and sausages, smoked fish from Sally Fern Barnes, fresh fish from Glenmar in Union Hall, seasonal veg from three well-chosen local growers, cheeses from the best in the business, and burrata from Macroom all feature.
A brunch classic, such as steak and eggs, is an 8oz bavette from Bandon, served with West Cork Eggs and a deeply herbaceous chimichurri. Eggs in Hell heaves with crispy potatoes, spicy tomato sauce and eggs. French toast with house made vanilla egg custard-soaked brioche are piled high with local strawberries and honey. There is The Full Jack, but also the Full Veggie which is redolent with local vegetables and eggs without a fake meat item in sight – as it should be.
The daytime menu includes a selection of open sandwiches such as local crab, a classic toasted special, or a twist on a caprese using Macroom mozzarella, while sharing boards celebrate local charcuterie and cheesemaking. There is also an eye-pleasing display of cakes and pastries (available to have with coffee after the main daytime menu closes at 3pm too), many of which are made in house by Jack, whose first passion as a chef was patisserie.
On Sundays, a classic roast is on the menu; choose from blushing roast sirloin, or classic turkey and ham “with all the trimmings.” From mid-August, the offering extends to include an evening menu and Jack is a classically trained chef who has worked in many high-end kitchens, so the evening service may be expected to up the formality somewhat from the daytime operation - but the food, pricing and service will still feel accessible to all. A wine licence is pending, so for now there is a BYO option available, which makes it more fun and will no doubt boost the wines sales in the well-stocked neighbouring shop on the square!
The vision here is for Jacks at Pilgrims Rest to be one of those rare and wonderful things: a quality restaurant that serves the neighbourhood incredibly well. As a seaside town on the Wild Atlantic Way, at peak summer season, there will of course be an influx of hungry and curious tourists. And as a restaurant that’s located in the former home of the much-loved Pilgrims, arguably the perception is that there are big shoes to fill. But the food here is doing that name more than justice, and, more importantly, in a way that is stamping a new identity on the building and the town itself. It’s only a matter of time before word gets out about this brand-new gem, and once it does the name Jacks at Pilgrims Rest will be on everyone lips!