Sometimes, what’s really needed is a quiet couple of days pampering in a child-free zone – for some this may mean a spa break but, for those in the know, a visit to Clogheen is the business.
Dermot and Christine Gannon’s ‘gourmet hideaway’ is an exceptional restaurant with accommodation in one of the most beautiful and unspoilt - yet relatively little known - parts of the country: just the place for couples ‘seeking a short getaway from it all experience’.
Emphatically not for ‘family weekends’ (bookings are not accepted for children under 12), it’s an unusual, very comfortable, beautifully designed and decorated, country house with mountain views across the famously scenic ‘Vee’, and lovely gardens which are gradually being developed and extended to provide as much home produce as possible for Dermot’s kitchen, and as an interesting amenity for guests.
A lofty double drawing room with large windows and a mixture of antiques and stylish modern furnishings makes a relaxing reception area, and the spacious, airy restaurant has retained stained glass windows from its previous life.
An unusual setting, for an exceptional meal: only an 8-course Tasting Menu is offered, plus an optional cheese platter of seven Irish cheeses with Traas Farm fruit and plum jam. Ingredients are home grown or sourced locally (and organic) whenever possible and the cooking is stunningly accurate - and everything is perfectly seasoned: there is no cheffy arrogance here and a (tiny) salt and pepper set is offered on tables, but Dermot has such a sure palate that it will almost certainly be unnecessary to use it.
Many diners may be wary of the Tasting Menu, but servings are well-judged. It certainly isn’t a marathon, yet could never be described as ‘grudging’ or ‘mean’ - and, in deference to Irish taste, the meat course is very generous indeed.
Menus change daily and, although personal preferences may mean that you will enjoy some even better than others, it is an ideal arrangement for guests staying for several nights. And it offers exceptional value for a meal of this quality: skilfully cooked, generous and beautifully presented.
*Old Convent was selected for our Irish Breakfast Award in 2008 (country house category).
