Dermot and Christine Gannon’s ‘gourmet hideaway’ is an exceptional restaurant in one of the most beautiful and unspoilt - yet relatively little known - parts of the country: just the place for couples ‘seeking a getaway from it all dining experience’.
Emphatically not for ‘family get togethers’ (bookings are not accepted for children under 12), it’s an unusual, very comfortable, beautifully designed and decorated, country house with mountain views across the famously scenic ‘Vee’, and lovely gardens which are being developed and extended to provide as much home produce as possible for Dermot’s kitchen.
A lofty double drawing room with large windows and a mixture of antiques and stylish modern furnishings makes a relaxing reception area, and the spacious, airy restaurant has retained stained glass windows from its previous life.
An unusual setting, for an exceptional meal: only an 8-course Tasting Menu is offered, plus an optional cheese platter of seven Irish cheeses with Traas Farm fruit and plum jam. Ingredients are home grown or sourced locally (and organic) whenever possible and the cooking is stunningly accurate - and everything is perfectly seasoned: there is no cheffy arrogance here and a (tiny) salt and pepper set is offered on tables, but Dermot has such a sure palate that it will almost certainly be unnecessary to use it.
Many diners may be wary of the Tasting Menu, but servings are well-judged. It certainly isn’t a marathon, yet could never be described as ‘grudging’ or ‘mean’ - and, in deference to Irish taste, the meat course is very generous indeed.
Menus change daily and the experience offers exceptional value for a meal of this quality: skilfully cooked, generous and beautifully presented.
