Designed by William Unsworth in 1884, the stable block of the Herdman family's historic linen mills that gave this charming village its name have been beautifully restored - now making an atmospheric home for a museum and a number of businesses including this appealing all day restaurant, which was opened by well known chef Niall Gorham and his wife Patricia early in 2023 and has since settled in well, soon becoming popular with local customers.
Reflecting its original use, it's a spacious high-ceiling room with small windows near the top of the walls, which are decorated with large pictures connected to the area - the old mill in its heyday and the Mourne River, which is a great local fishing spot. Sika deer feature on wallpaper beside the open kitchen and service area, which are in view for diners to enjoy. Sika deer are farmed locally at Glenpark Estate in Gortin Glen Forest Park (glenparkestate.com) and also on the Baronscourt Estate (barons-court.com), which are also interesting places to stay in the area.
Linen tablecloths and napkins on chunky tables also echo the history of the place and set a homely tone - as do the lovely staff, who are very friendly, and the welcoming aroma of good honest cooking, which is going down well with the locals (and their children).
A popular High Tea set menu is offered, as well as an à la carte for lunch and dinner and, while elegant, it's wholesome, generous cooking. Typical starters might include a nice plump Pigeon breast with black pudding and rocket leaf salad (or maybe scallops with black pudding) and perhaps a light soup such as White Onion with Parmesan Cheese, served with a baby Treacle Bread loaf and whipped butter.
Mains could be succulent slow roasted sirloin of beef with fluffy Yorkshire puddings and a good robust gravy (a favourite Sunday lunch, possibly replaced by steak in the evening), and perhaps Sugar Pit Bacon chop with a creamy grain mustard sauce and some shredded cabbage, both with terrific potatoes, while another evening alternative might be Fillet Steak with Daube of Beef and Truffle Shavings, or a fish dish... Seasoning is spot on, with flavours that are concentrated without being salty.
Desserts tend to be homely and the wine offering is a work in progress, but there's Guinness and lager on tap and a fair amount of soft drinks are offered.
Plenty of helpful, well trained servers keep everyone happy, even at busy times - and, although it would be nice to see more local suppliers (including some Sika venison, perhaps) credited on the menu, they are beginning to feature on social media, so the role of provenance is growing.
All round, Sika by Niall is a very welcome addition to the dining choices in this interesting area, offering quality, good value and a lovely outing - and there's a fascinating museum on site to visit too.
