Atmospherically located in The Keep - part of the 1841 Star Fort structure and one of the most prominent buildings at the former Ebrington Barracks site beside the River Foyle - this keenly anticipated restaurant and bakehouse/deli by hospitality duo Shauna and Mark Froydenlund hit the ground running when it opened coming up to Christmas 2025.
The pair spent over a decade working in leading London kitchens (including time as Chefs Patrons at Marcus Wareing's acclaimed Marcus at the Berkeley) before returning to Shauna's home town on the retirement of her father, the restaurateur Mark Caithness, who had established one of Derry's most consistently popular restaurants, The Exchange (see entry), in 2001. Mark and Shauna took over in 2023 and have retained the loyal clientèle and then some, but they were also on a mission to open a second business of a very particular style - and that dream is now becoming reality at The Fold.While still a work in progress, the vision is real and it is introduced very well on their website, which describes "A new kind of food experience... a gathering place for good food and memorable experiences. By day, our bakehouse serves slow-made pastries, sourdough and coffee. By night, the space transforms – hosting intimate, limited-seat tasting menus from two of the region’s most creative chefs. Outside, a covered yard hums with charcoal, small plates, and the clink of pints. ...The Fold brings together the best of baking, cooking, and community – all in one space."
Not all of those elements are in place yet - the evening dining experience and the covered courtyard with its bar/kitchen will follow - but The Fold is very much open for business and setting a standard in excellent admirably affordable casual daytime fare. Now with a double door entry, the re-purposed building, number 31, has kept original features - the vaulted ceiling with its lovely wooden beams and the stained concrete flooring - while a compact kitchen lines one wall, fronted by a display area where the very sociable and helpful servers take orders and note your seat. After that it's just sit back and relax and enjoy their beautiful savoury snacks and great home baking. Seeing the team working and gliding about so silently is an experience in itself. This is a proper kitchen set up - no drama, just experts in motion...Early brunchers get substantial snacks and excellent coffees. The selection displayed at the counter changes daily and the delicious offerings combine of classic patisserie and meticulously sourced ingredients. Expect the likes of Pastel De Nata treats, simple Oatmeal Shortbread (£1.75), Cinnamon Cruffins (£3.50), Braised Pork Belly Doughnuts (£7.50), a delicious combination of sweet and savoury, and Nduja Sausage Rolls (£3.50), in the flakiest pastry andwith home made ketchup. Then there might be Muscavado & Chocolate Cookie and, for the ultimate sugar fix, the Millionaires Tart (£3.50) with an excellent Chocolate Ganache layer, that is sure to find a home.
Light lunches served from midday include a superb Cheese toastie (Grants Ham & Kilmora Emmenthal style cheese from the makers of Killeen Farmhouse Cheese in Galway, £9); freshly baked Focaccia £9.50 with Curly Pigs Charcuterie (Fermanagh) and basil pesto, or a vegetarian version with Romesco sauce, confit leeks , baby gem and pickles (£8.50). There will be a great seasonal soup - Ribollita in winter, perhaps, a rustic and seriously tasty Tuscan bean and vegetable broth (£9 ) and maybe a Milk bread, with bacon butter and chicken broth (£9). The Fold's Fried Chicken & corn bread with chive aioli is equally enticing (£12) and you don't have to be vegetarian to crave a plate of Crispy Smoked Potatoes with confit Garlic & Cheese ( £7.50). For children too, there's plenty of good nourishing fresh food that's full of flavour: Penne Pasta with a slow cooked Tomato Sauce (£7), for example, Bread rolls with Grants Ham and Cheese (£6.50) and skin on fries (£4).
The menu, the cooking and the staff are all sure to delight, and yet - despite the historic background - the setting is so modest. Lightwood tables and chairs along with some bench seating, board clipped menus and simple white refined crockery. All quietly just-so, and with modest prices to match. And, as a visiting chef commented, it's good to see that the area has such a class act - and what a lovely addition for their fellow hospitality businesses on the the square, including the Ebrington Hotel, the Walled City Brewery and Stitch & Weave (see entries).
