Having made his name in London, over many decades, critically-acclaimed Irish chef and restaurateur Richard Corrigan’s new Dublin restaurant is the latest addition to his portfolio and an exciting and vibrant new addition to Ballsbridge. Serving stylish and creative cooking to suit all occasions, moods and appetites, The Park Café, with its all day menu, is more restaurant than café. The menu is one of the most original and interesting around, straying from the obvious and favouring Corrigan classics alongside imaginative and bold flavours. Each dish is meticulously conceived and designed to bring joy, the kind that leaves diners delighted with their choice while enviously eyeing up their dining companions’ dishes.
Starters might include Lodge Caesar salad, featuring crisp cos lettuce grown in Virginia Lodge’s polytunnel and elevated with the satisfying crunch of tiny pickled vegetables. Another triumph, steak tartare is succulent and deftly seasoned, accompanied by tangy oyster cream and large crunchy croutons (of which more can be requested, if you need them.)
Mains include a wonderful sharing platter of roasted Oxford ‘Sandy & Brown’ piglet, reared at Virginia Park and served with crab apples, roasted root veg and jalapeno. Tender and beautifully plated, it’s a real home-grown seasonal treat. The La Jammet kebab, featuring Old Castle Hill Lamb is another original, with a skewer of lamb kofta, lamb’s kidney, liver and a grilled lamb chop served on elegantly spiced pumpkin dahl with roasted cauliflower, pickles and raita.
Corrigan did have a presence in Dublin for a while as an outpost of his successful London restaurant, Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, and it’s no surprise that seafood plays a strong role on The Park Café’s menu. Fish lovers will find an excellent selection. A glistening marble-topped seafood counter is the place to perch on (very comfy) high stools and tuck into dressed oysters from Ireland’s best producers. Other treats include Bentley's Fish Pie, Corrigan's signature dish, crammed with beautifully cooked smoked haddock, prawns and Clare Island salmon and served with green Tabasco on the side and perhaps magnificent black sole fillet with buttermilk beurre blanc.
An original dessert menu continues the creativity, with delicious plates like steamed pudding with custard cream, chocolate tart soufflé and lychee rose rice pudding. A thoughtful farmhouse cheese selection features cheeses made by a mainly female cast.
Stylishly revamped, the room bears no resemblance to the space once occupied by Dylan McGrath’s short-lived Shelbourne Social. Soft lighting, green leather banquettes and well spaced tables indoors are matched with a covered all-weather terrace that will be in demand in fine weather, when the roof can be retracted. Upstairs a moodier palette has been chosen for the cosy bar where small plates are served alongside drinks. Coffee, aperitifs and digestifs can also be enjoyed here too.
A well considered drinks list includes classic cocktails, beers and an expensive but interesting wine list, which offers some choices by the glass, carafe and bottle. A helpful and knowledgeable front-of-house team has been well trained, with industry veteran Ronan Ryan leading them.
With access to his abundant kitchen garden, the pride of his Virginia Park Lodge country estate in Cavan, Corrigan and his team have a daily supply of freshly picked produce, including Savoy cabbages and leeks, pumpkins and root veg, blackcurrants and the specially reared pork.
With the slogan of Eat like a Pig, Drink like a Fish, pleasure, generosity of spirit and enjoyment are top of the menu at The Park Café.
