Set back from the road with a little green and some shrubs in front and plenty of parking, Gallagher’s may be situated rather unromantically just beyond a petrol station but first impressions should be good, as it is in a pretty thatched house with a history dating back to the 17th century, when it is believed to have been inhabited by labourers of the O'Brien clan of Bunratty and Dromoland Castles. (Alongside is P.J. Clarke’s, a large pub/café that is in common ownership – but, once you’re inside Gallagher’s, you’re not aware of it.)
Reflecting its history, the interior of the cottage is rustic, with stone floor and walls and a mural of a Connemara scene on one wall; an open fire and a combination of dark wood and partitions make it cosy.
Pleasant and efficient staff ensure a welcoming reception for arriving guests, who can relax with a drink or go straight to the table (wooden, no linen, paper napkins; candlelit at night) to read head chef Jorg Gerlach’s menus, which include a reasonably priced Wine & Dine 2/3 course dinner (€24-30, depending on number of courses and wine choice) and an à la carte.
Both offer a good range of mainly traditional fish and seafood dishes, plus a token scattering of vegetarian, chicken and steak choices, including the popular surf and turf (fillet steak and lobster on the carte in this case, which will set you back €40); nightly seafood specials are also offered (three starters and three main courses), making this a pretty wide choice.
The Sunday lunch menu is naturally more limited, but it still offers about six dishes on each course, of which half will be seafood.
It is clear that Jorg Gerlach values his suppliers and lobster and other luxury choices including black ('Dover') sole are available, but the wide choice of quality fish and seafood offered ensures a good dish to suit every taste, budget and occasion.
In the Guide’s experience, fish is very fresh, perfectly cooked and the portions are well-judged.
Some recommended dishes, when available, might include a starter of steamed wild mussels, which come in a deep bowl – a generous portion with a creamy sauce, and a finger bowl supplied along with a bowl for empty shells – and an unusual main course of baked cod with a local St. Tola goats cheese and sorrel crust, which is served with a warm fennel and radish salad and tomato & cucumber salsa.
Side vegetables go beyond the usual tricolour of broccoli, cauliflower and carrots –a colourful melange of carrots and yellow and red peppers, perhaps – and, while desserts may be somewhat predictable, excellent coffees (plus enjoyment of a good choice from an interesting if rather pricey wine list) should end a meal here on a high note.
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