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The Ice House Hotel

Bring your binoculars when heading for this quirky hotel, as the wildlife in the River Moy and wooded banks beyond the huge sliding windows of your room is perhaps its most fascinating feature - and could well keep you ensconced there in a comfy chair for longer than expected.

Once the heart of Ballina’s salmon industry, the 150 year old ice house is a lovely building but – right on the river and backed by the road – the challenging site called for some creative thinking. The result is a funky mix of traditional - some ‘heritage’ rooms in the original house have little balconies – and bold contemporary design in public areas, notably successful in Pier Restaurant (see below), perhaps less so in the main body of the hotel which features a lot of (rather utilitarian) fully tiled surfaces in stairways, and reception and seating areas which are stylish but somewhat impersonal.

But there is some outstanding artwork to please the eye and another high point is the Chill Spa, which has already earned an enviable reputation amongst intrepid spa-goers and includes a riverside hot tub (a mixed blessing when the river is low).

Staying here is certainly a very different experience from the old-fashioned comforts that tend to be associated with this part of the country; it should make an intriguing base for those who like to break with tradition and is introducing many new visitors to the town. Off-street guest parking spaces are available beside the hotel.

Conferences/Banqueting (70/100); secretarial services, free broadband wi/fi. Rooms 32 (7 suites, 3 executive, 4 shower only, 1 disabled); children welcome (under 7s free in parents room, cot available free of charge, baby sitting arranged); 24 hr room service, Lift, ample parking. Fly fishing, steam room and spa on site. Equestrian and golf nearby.

Pier Restaurant:

An ingeniously designed and atmospheric light-filled space, with an extensive decked area leading off it, the restaurant incorporates the original vaulted ice store which is set up with smartly laid tables and has a raised area at the back, allowing a river view even from the furthest tables.

Head chef, Gavin O’Rourke, who may be remembered for his time at Dublin’s Peacock Alley (which was famous for dramatic presentation), has a keen eye for the way food looks on the plate although not, these days, at the expense of simplicity.

In the evening, an à la carte menu is divided by Sea and Land, offering a total choice of perhaps eight or nine dishes on each course; the dearest starter – homemade papardelle pasta with lobster, baby asparagus, roasted tomato & fresh basil (€25) – may prove irresistible and comes with plenty of luscious lobster, although some may find the sauce too spicy for the delicate lobster flavour; better, we think, is the Ice House Tasting Plate, a delicious assembly of unusual meats including smoked ox tongue, devilled lamb kidney, beef rillettes, and McGeough’s black pudding (€19) from nearby Connemara.

Confit of organic salmon, with buttered York cabbage, mango and chilli Salsa might make a tasty main course, served with baby spinach, peas and sauce Albufeira, or meat lovers might go for an upmarket variation of steak & chips: a very generous dry-aged sirloin of Irish beef with Cashel Blue sabayon and pomme paillasson.

Prettily presented desserts offer contemporary versions of classics (pecan brownie with lemon curd icecream, perhaps), or there’s an Irish cheese selection. A compact wine list is appropriate for the food, and – although some staff may seem to be better trained than others - service is pleasant.

Seen overall, Pier Restaurant is a delightful place to be, and is proving a welcome addition to the dining options in the area. More casual daytime menus are offered, and a good breakfast is also served in the restaurant.

Pier restaurant : Seats 70 (outdoors, 40; private room, 15); children welcome (high chair, childrens menu, baby changing facilities). Food available all day, 12.30-9.45pm. L&D daily, 12.30-3.30pm (from 12 Sun) and 6.30-9.45pm (6-9pm Sun). Closed 25-26 Dec. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

N59 to Ballina, through town, turn down by the river