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The Old Convent Gourmet Hideaway

Dermot and Christine Gannon's restaurant with rooms, styled a 'gourmet hideaway', is in one of the most beautiful and unspoilt yet relatively little known - parts of the country: just the place for couples 'seeking a short getaway from it all experience'.

It's an unusual, very comfortable, beautifully designed and decorated, country house with mountain views across the famously scenic 'Vee' - emphatically not for 'family weekends', bookings are not accepted for children under 12.

A lofty double drawing room with large windows and a mixture of antiques and good modern furnishings makes a relaxing reception area, and the spacious, airy restaurant is in what was once the convent refectory and adjoining sacristy - now one large area, but still complete with stained glass windows.

An unusual setting, for an exceptional meal: only a 9-course Tasting Menu is offered, plus an optional cheese platter of seven Irish cheeses with Trass Farm fruit and plum jam. Ingredients are sourced locally (and organic) when possible and, as anyone who has experienced a meal cooked by this talented chef will testify, the cooking is stunningly accurate: the discernible difference between beautiful pieces of Irish beef cooked 'rare' and 'very rare' a joy to behold, for example.

Sensitive seasoning is another highlight there is no cheffy arrogance here and a (tiny) salt and pepper set is offered on tables, but Dermot has such a sure palate that it will almost certainly be unnecessary to use it.

Many diners might be wary of the Tasting Menu, but servings are well-judged - it certainly isn't a marathon and, on the other hand, could never be described as 'grudging' or 'mean'; furthermore, in deference to Irish taste, the meat course is very generous indeed.

And at €60 it is very good value for an exceptional meal: skilfully cooked, generous and beautifully presented.

Seats 50; children over 12 years welcome; D Thu-Sat (& Bank Hol Sun, also considering opening Wed D in 2009, call to check); set 8 course gourmet D €60. House wine from €22. SC 10% on groups 6+.


Accommodation:

The bedrooms, all individually styled, are sumptuously appointed and have wonderful views although no tea and coffee making facilities; bathrooms are also stylishly appointed, and have separate bath and shower.

This is a lovely place that is definitely 'itself' - and you could very quickly become fond of it; there are several major golf courses nearby, and their culinary reputation preceded them from their previous restaurant in Cahir, so the Gannons have already earned a following.

Everything they do at The Old Convent is not just done superbly well, but done differently - the wonderful breakfast that is a further treat in store for overnight guests, for example, begins with a beautiful fruit martini with yogurt, honey & toasted pistachios, presented to your table in a martini glass on arrival - delightful; and, of course, everything that follows is equally special, including brown bread and beer bread baked in the Aga, Ballybrado eggs and Graham Roberts' organic smoked salmon.

Simply superb.

Small conferences/banqueting (40). Rooms 7 (4 suites, 1 shower only, all no smoking); not suitable for children; B&B from €75-90 pps, ss €40. Free Broadband wi/fi. Closed Christmas - end of Jan. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

From Clogheen take the Vee/Lismore road, 0.5km on right