The Tannery

For over a decade, discerning diners from all over Ireland (and beyond) have needed only the flimsiest excuse to make a beeline for Paul and Maire Flynn's stylish contemporary restaurant in Dungarvan. It is in an old leather warehouse but the treatment is fresh and contemporary; however, although it has recently been given a lovely new makeover, the tannery theme is still echoed throughout the light, clean-lined interior, creating a pleasingly historic atmosphere in a modern setting.

Arriving guests can see Paul and his team at work in the open kitchen on their way upstairs to the first-floor dining area, which is bright and welcoming, with dramatic paintings, fresh flowers and smart, simple table settings.

The pretty new stylised floral wallpaper and crisp white linen on the previously bare tables has brought a pleasing new softness to the ambience (and improved the acoustics), making a meal here an even more pleasurable experience than before.

Menus are wonderfully simple yet, paradoxically, the food tastes very exciting; while inspired to some extent by global trends and regional cooking, particularly of the Mediterranean countries, menus have a strongly Irish feeling and are based mainly on local ingredients, which Paul supports avidly and sources with care - notably local seafood of course, also meats including pork and bacon supplied by renowned local butcher JD Power.

As viewers of Paul’s recent television series will expect, simplicity is of the essence here, and there are no amuse bouches; what is certain to be an outstanding meal cuts straight to the chase with superb starters.

Try The Tannery charcuterie plate, perhaps – a combination of Fingal Ferguson’s West Cork meats and a jar of homemade chicken liver paté served with toasted brioche. One of many classics revisited, this simple yet memorable dish is worth travelling for – another is a crab crème brulée, with pickled cucumber and melba toast.

An unusual main course that illustrates the skill of this exceptional chef is described simply as local seafood stew. Served in a saucepan with a ladle to help yourself, and garlic bread in a bowl, this homely presentation belies the deliciousness of the perfectly cooked fish, and its deeply flavoured saffron and rosemary broth. Another triumph of a dish.

Simple accompaniments are equally special – on a recent visit, a gorgeous quail and mushroom pie came with sherry braised cabbage (an inspired combination) and a bowl of perfect mash glistening with melted butter. Even hardened food critics are continually surprised by Paul Flynn's cooking which, as one fellow chef put it, "makes dishes which one thought one knew taste as if one was eating them for the first time".

Presentation is good and all the better for being plain - not too much height, and not too many useless drops about the plate.

An Irish farmhouse cheese platter is invariably a highlight, and the dessert menu offers plenty of treats - but here the maverick genius may be at work, and you could well find novelty alongside the conventional chocolate confections.

And giving good value has always been a notable feature of The Tannery: the à la carte is very fairly priced for food of this quality, but the lunch (Fri & Sun) and early evening menus (changed daily) are outstandingly good value.

Attentive and efficient service, an interesting and kindly-priced wine list (which offers lots of cheaper choices for this style of restaurant, also a welcome page of half bottles) and, above all, Paul's exceptional cooking, make for memorable meals.

*The Tannery was the Guide’s Restaurant of the Year in 2004 and Paul Flynn was our Chef of the Year in 2008.

Seats 60 (+ 30 downstairs, private room, 30); children welcome (mini Sun L menu €10). L Fri & Sun only, 12.30-2.15 (Sun to 2.30); Fri 2/3 course set L with glass of wine €22/28; set Sun L €30; D Tue-Sat, 6-9.30. Value D €28.50 (Tue-Fri 6-9.30); house wine €23; sc discretionary (10% on parties of 6+). Restaurant closed Mon, D Sun, L Mon-Thurs & L Sat; 25/26 Dec, Good Fri, 2 weeks Jan.

Rooms:

Comfortable, stylish and very convenient accommodation is offered nearby, in Church Street. A continental breakfast is organised so that you can have it in your room.

*The Tannery Cookery School and the adjacent Glanbia organic garden, which supplies both the restaurant and the school, is also just around the corner. Market gardening courses are offered as well as cookery (full details on www.tannery.ie)