James and Beryl Kearney’s lovely 1750s Georgian house just on the edge of Longford town was once owned by Lord Longford, and is set in four acres of beautiful wooded gardens, designed as a series of rooms.
It really is a delightful house and has been sensitively restored with style, combining elements of grandeur with a human scale that makes guests feel very comfortable. Its warmth strikes the first-time visitor immediately on arrival in the hall, which has a welcoming open fire and a graceful white-painted staircase seen against warm red walls.
An elegant period drawing room and the six guest bedrooms in the main house all have their particular charm (one is especially large, but all are delightful); but perhaps the handsomest room of all is the unusual vaulted dining room, where an extensive (and very delicious) breakfast menu is served.
This is a most appealing house, with old wooden floors, rugs, antique furniture - and, most importantly, a great sense of hospitality; and we have been watching it with great interest in recent years - it has gradually been growing, as the Kearneys have joined the house to restored outbuildings alongside, providing some fine new bedrooms, and a restaurant (see below) which has been created in one of the classic stone outbuildings.
Rooms 12 (4 suites, 1 executive, 2 family, 2 shower only, 1 disabled, all no smoking); children welcome (under 4 free in parents' room, cot available). B&B €60, ss €10. No pets. Gardens. Golf nearby. Open all year. *Self-catering also available - details on application.
VM Restaurant
The Kearneys and Head Chef Gary O’Hanlon have taken the midlands by storm since opening the VM Restaurant in late 2008 - and they’ve made Longford a destination for food lovers throughout Ireland, and beyond.
In converted stables, with exposed stonework and an abundance of candles making it atmospheric at night, the restaurant overlooks James’s fascinating Japanese garden (complete with water features) and it is full of character. When beautifully set up with white linen, elegant white china and different flowers from the gardens on each table, it makes a lovely setting in which to enjoy Gary’s excellent modern classic cooking.
Whether entering from the car park or the house itself, guests arrive in a ‘new’ bar and restaurant reception area with a welcoming fire, where Beryl explains the menu while you enjoy a pre-dinner drink.
Gary is from Donegal (source of most of his fresh fish) and a Euro-Toques chef who lives the philosophy and takes pride in showcasing the best of local produce.
The four-course dinner menu begins with an interesting cover note giving the history of the house, and then the menu itself reads like a who’s who of nearby artisan and specialist food producers, with names like Moonshine Farm (Westmeath), Donald Russell beef (Longford), Kettyle free range chicken (Fermanagh), Thornhill duck (Cavan), Clare Island organic salmon (Mayo) – and, of course, VM’s own garden leaves and herbs - leaping off the page.
As befits the surroundings, the tone of the menu is special occasion but - although cooked with creativity and finesse - the secret of VM’s success is that the food experience is built on respect for its clientèle, both locally and those who travel considerable distances for the pleasure of a meal here. Thus the cooking is grounded in the familiar products of the region, it is not overly cheffy, the atmosphere is welcoming and unstuffy – and prices are very fair.
The half dozen or so dishes on each course, have a slight leaning towards poultry (duck, guinea fowl, free range chicken) but there’s plenty of beef, perhaps rare breed pork or Roscommon lamb, fish and shellfish on offer too, and one or two imaginative vegetarian main courses.
All the little niceties are observed, beginning with a complimentary amuse bouche (hoi sin duck in choux pastry, perhaps) before starters, which will include a flavoursome soup – VM vegetable soup, for example, served with basil oil and (very good) breads - and perhaps an interesting Taste of the Midlands salad, with O’Halleran’s free range egg, spinach, Kelly’s organic soft cheese, Rogans whiskey oak smoked bacon (from John Rogan, near Mullingar), capers, Viewmount herbs, red onion, red wine vinaigrette and roast pear.
Main courses include the mandatory steak of course (28 day aged sirloin, for example, which may also be offered as a traditional roast for Sunday lunch) and there may be a special fish, such as line caught brill or cod from Donegal. Dishes sound intricate when reading the menu descriptions but skilful execution and care with balancing flavours means that the food on the plate does not seem too complex.
Rather glamorous desserts are hard to resist, and might include a sweetened ricotta cheese & vanilla bean éclair with Callebaut chocolate, or a tasting plate of highly original VM ice creams and sorbets with brandy snap - and, to round off a special meal, coffee comes with lovely homemade petits fours.
A meal here is sure to be a delightful experience, enhanced by attentive service and, especially, Beryl Kearney’s caring interaction with guests.
An informative wine list, helpfully organised by style, includes some half bottles and a fair choice under €30.
VM is a lovely restaurant, and certainly worth a journey.
Seats 55; D Wed-Sat 6.30-9.30, Sun L only 1-4.30pm. Early D €35, Wed & Thu 6.30-7.30pm. Set D €53, Sun L €28. House wine €20. Children welcome; reservations advised. Restaurant closed Mon, Tue. Amex, MasterCard, Visa
