Small, stylish and light-flooded, Margadh RHA is a café by day and wine bar by night. No ordinary wine bar, it punches well above its weight with the kind of menu that wouldn’t be out of place at a top restaurant. Tapping into the zeitgeist for pared-back seasonally-led plates, the team here is part of the Mamo of Howth stable where classically-trained chef Killian Durkin and partner Jess D’Arcy (ex-Etto) have created one of the city’s most inspired collections of food businesses.
Floor-to-ceiling windows offer up bright, traffic-free views of Ely Place, a terrace of handsome Georgian townhouses in a quiet cul-de-sac mere footsteps from St Stephen’s Green. A few small outdoor tables make it a perfect summer spot to soak up the city peacefully while indoors there’s comfy seats and slimline wooden tables, mostly two-tops with one large table seating 6-8. (The wine bar can be hired out in its entirety, though the small tables are fixed in place so can’t be put together.)
The tiny kitchen is overseen by Cathal Leonard, formerly of Chapter One and Potager, who turns out flavour-packed dishes that zing with vibrancy. Kate Ruddy is the quintessential host, a welcoming industry veteran whose easy charm makes dining here so much fun. Enthusiastic, knowledgeable and proud, she works the small room with a lightness of touch that belies her talents.
You can pop in to enjoy the café menu of coffee, pastries and light lunch fare, or for a glass of wine and a snack, or reserve a table for the ala carte menu at evenings and weekends. Everything on the creatively conceived menus speaks of careful attention to detail, including the very popular fresh pasta which is hand made in Mamo’s centralised prep kitchen.
The walls are lined with shelves of wine and the thoughtfully curated list is exciting and well priced. An imaginative list of specials by the glass might include affordable Clair Obscur Grower Champagne and Kabir Moscato.
Contemporary and informal, Margadh RHA is ideal for a relaxed and fun evening of delicious food and wine away from the masses. Pop in for a glass of rosé and cheese plate or enjoy the whole tasting menu with exciting wines. And don’t worry if it’s sommelier James Brooke’s night off: Kate’s exceptional wine knowledge will ensure you drink just as well as you eat in this really special Dublin spot.
