Although many others have since followed suit, the idea of opening a restaurant in a church was highly original when the late Hans-Peter Matthiae did so in Cashel in 1968. The scale - indeed the whole style of the place - is superb and provides an unusual and atmospheric setting for the seriously fine food which people travel great distances to sample.
Hans-Peter’s son, Jason (who returned from working in some of London’s finest kitchens) joined him in the business in 1998 and this - together with the opening in 2004 of their excellent daytime restaurant, Café Hans, next door (now Hansie's Ice Cream, see entry) - brought renewed energy, confirming the status of Chez Hans as a leading restaurant in a wide area and assuring its future.
Ably assisted by his wife, restaurant manager Louise Matthia, and a strong kitchen brigade, Jason's menus and the overall experience represents some of the best value to be found in Ireland and a visit here is definitely worth a special journey.
Guests are welcomed into the bar, to read the enticing menus over a drink: the à la carte offers an outstanding choice of seven excellent dishes on each course, perhaps including specialities - their famous Cassoulet de Toulouse of wild pheasant with kale, bread sauce and pheasant gravy, imaginative vegetarian dishes - and, of course, the great lamb and beef for which the area is renowned.
A rack of Tipperary lamb might be served with pea puree, carrot & garlic, courgette and basil salad, herb crust and lamb gravy, or perhaps one of the three or four fish mains – steamed wild halibut, pan-roasted king scallops or the excellent Dover sole on the bone with prawn meuniere, caramelised cauliflower and a raisin and Armagnac purée. Finish perhaps with lemon tart & lime tart with raspberry sorbet or chocolate mousse with vanilla ice cream and candied oranges, then tea or coffee with home-made petits fours.
Service, under Louise Matthiae’s direction, is quick and pleasant. An interesting, well described and fairly priced wine list includes a good range of classic old world and international wines and varieties, with ten available by the glass, and 28 recommended wines under €40, some from Hans-Peter’s sister’s vineyard in Germany.
Booking ahead is essential.
