Having arrived via some some seriously good kitchens - including Cliff House Hotel at Ardmore Co Waterford, Andrew Fairley's at Gleneagles and, most recently, as Head Chef with Ian Orr at nearby Browns - well known local chef Phelim O'Hagan opened Artis ('Craft' in Latin) in the Craft Village in December 2021, adding a new top end experience to the city's already wide-ranging dining choices.
Also known from his appearance as a finalist on BBC's Great British Menu programme, Phelim and his partner and restaurant manager, Serina Macari, are now settled into life in Derry City and sharing their love of fine dining and seasonal local and Irish produce.
A simple gold Artis motif above the bay window and again beside the entrance set the tone and, inside, there's a cool vibe in two interlinked rooms that are simply presented with wooden tables (where Individual menus await) and comfortable chairs or banquette seating, all softened by flickering candles. Table settings are placed when your choices have been made, giving a welcome opportunity to interact with the staff (or perhaps to check that one has made a good choice) and to make a selection from the wine list, which also includes some lovely local drinks.
A little 'Amuse' arrives - say a tiny bowl of soft shredded beef, with a smoked potato purée and a crunchy crumb topping - along with a board of bread rolls (soft herbs with spring onions, perhaps) and butter, to enjoy while the starters are being prepared. Dishes are understated, visually simple yet a little arty, with clean lines, colours, textures and defined presentation all promising a treat.
Guests are advised to allow three and a half hours for the full 7-course Tasting experience (which is designed to be a food journey and includes only one choice, the main course) and the à la carte is also unrushed, with the team delivering a relaxed evening. There is plenty of time to enjoy reading the suppliers list left on each table and others appear on the menu too, underlining the commitment to local and seasonal foods.
Starters may include dishes like a Fresh Crab Tartlet of white meat in a paper thin case with crisp Granny Smith apple matchsticks, a few beads of caviar, and oak smoke salmon with a dainty jug of a cream velouté that's poured by the server, and a moist Fillet of Mackerel with a punchy 'Mack' sauce, fennel shards and orange segments - pretty as a picture and too good to share. Fresh and vibrant, dishes like these are delicious.
Mains are also strong on fish - maybe a John Dory fillet set on a Puy lentil base, with charred cauliflower and a buttermilk sauce - while meats might include very special Achill Lamb Cutlets from County Mayo, cooked to your liking and presented with wild asparagus, a few drops of St Tola goats curds and a tiny bowl of soft topped Shepherds Pie on the side. More substantial sides could include Organic Carrots, dressed with yogurt and harrisa, or there's a Wee Derry Salad that includes shards of cooked ham in a bowl of crunchy leaves. The seasoning is light, with the components left to deliver the sensation, and every plate is photogenic - and then consigned to history as it's demolished...
Time passes pleasantly as the show rolls on, with the team delivering a lovely evening.
Finish with desserts like a Chocolate and Irish Whisky Cube (layers of ganache, creams and jelly, with a coffee ice cream) or a hot Raspberry Soufflé (lightened with the sieved fruit purée and vanilla ice on the side) or Irish cheeses, and lovely coffee or Green Tea. And, finally, a treasure chest is left on the table at this time to reveal some homemade Jammy Dodgers - an amusing little treat to end an unusual meal.
And before leaving don't forget to check out the toilets to see the wall art, including arty portraits of the Derry girls and some local celebrities.
Derry has a lot to offer and Phelim's special take on food offers a unique fine dining choice to this growing city.
