Prosecco on tap iwas one of the more unusual features that attracted attention when this pleasing restaurant opened in 2014 - a relaxed and warmly welcoming fine dining venue in the heart of Kinsale, it was a first restaurant for Helen Noonan and chef patron Paul McDonald, who have alwya offered an outstanding food experience, even for this foodiest of towns.
Paul brought experience in top hotels and restaurants in the UK and Ireland to their venture here and, not only is his sure-handed cooking innovative and the spare presentation very beautiful, but his menus - which are quality-led and not restrictively 'irish' - showcase local produce creatively.
While small, Bastion is very customer-friendly and offers both a restaurant - with an early sitting for those who like a short menu (four courses) and a later one for the full signature tasting menu ('allow 3 hours') - and the Front Lounge, where you can sit at the bar to sip a glass of wine and perhaps nibble something seriously tasty from their light à la carte 'snacks' menu, which ranges from Nocellara olives and candied peanuts to nibble with an aperitif, to more substantial options such as Duck & red wine ragout, iberico ham or a cheese platter. In the restaurant, well spaced tables are set up comfortably for more serious dining - the lighting is low and walls are hung with atmospheric landscape photos and prints by the KInsale based photographer Rohan Reilly which are a fine match for Paul's pared back food.
The menu choices change frequently but are always unusual and very tempting, offering skilfully honed minimalist dishes featuring local produce - typically West Cork duck and, of course, seafood - and less usual ingredients such as rabbit, along with some outstanding vegetarian dishes.
The wine list is not long but carefully curated to offer a good range of reds and whites available by the glass and more by the bottle - and it is always a work in progress. Coffee - from the local Badger & Dodo roastery at Fermoy - is excellent, and so too are the teas; watch out for their specials, including the organic matcha grade III from Japan.
Attention to detail, seriously delicious food and excellent service from friendly and helpful staff make Bastion a special destination in a town that is well endowed with good restaurants - and its success is well earned.
