When he returned to his home town to open Dooks Fine Foods last year, Richard Gleeson brought experience with masters of flavour like Yotam Ottolenghi and Skye Gyngell (formerly at Petersham Nurseries, now at Spring, Somerset House), so he had food lovers licking their lips in anticipation of the simple, colourful food and bold flavours that promised.
And quite right too, the smartly presented Dooks and its modern, fiercely local, food has turned out to be a perfect contrast to the town's famously traditional McCarthy's Pub, just up the road, and not only a boon to locals but also well worth a detour off the M8 Dublin-Cork motorway - exit at Urlingford if you have time heading south, and enjoy the wonderful rural drive.
Open all day from early morning, it's a quality destination for anything from a good coffee and a home bake (note the array of rustic bakes and elegant patisserie laid out enticingly just inside the door..) to a deliciously tasty and reviving lunch served from the open kitchen - and fans travel great distances for the pleasure of the Small Plates menu offered on Friday and Saturday nights.
A hymn to the good things produced in Ireland, especially Tipperary and the neighbouring counties, menus abound with great producers both famous - such as Cashel Farmhouse Cheeses produced nearby (“I love using Cashel Blue and their Shepherds Store Cheese”) - and less well known, but equally delicious, local treats such as David O’Meara’s wonderful Slievnamon honey, and the Irish Hedgerow drinks from Drangan, Co. Tipperary.
The excellent O'Dwyer's Butchers of Killenaule play a starring role at Dooks, supplying all the beef (from O’Dwyer’s farm), chicken and lamb. Other meats proudly credited include Crowe’s Farm award winning pork from Dundrum and black and white pudding from ‘The Butcher’s Daughter’ range of Cashel, while fresh fish and seafood is supplied by both Seatrade in Dunmore East, Co Waterford and Daly’s of Co Kerry. And there are many more fine foods to discover here - "There’s such a long list of amazing food producers that we love working with,” says Richard.
Excellent (and in some case unusual) drinks are offered to match the tasty fare - and service, under the direction of Sally-Anne Gleeson, is as engaging and informed as you'd expect. And you won't leave empty handed either, as the deli is super too - featuring a wide range of in-house goodies and a carefully chosen collection of other interesting artisan must-haves, the only problem is how to stop scooping irresistible treats off the shelves...
Another must-visit destination in this county of abundance.
