Finnish chef Mickael Viljanen isn’t known for resting on his laurels. Wowing Dublin Restaurants diners since 2012 when he moved from Gregan’s Castle in The Burren and made a name for himself in Dublin, this creative genius never stops innovating, pushing and perfecting.
Serving the finest of fine dining, he's something of a chefs’ chef, respected and revered by talented peers for the sheer innovation and flair he brings to his seamless flavour combination. Drawing inspiration from his travels, Nordic roots and local seafood, he marries superb Irish and French ingredients, with many international influences.
A meal always starts with superb bread, farmhouse butter and a dramatic amuse bouche that looks so delicate yet yields immense flavour. Developing new dishes constantly, each plate reflects the season, drawing on diverse techniques and flavour combinations.
Perhaps you’ll fall for a featherlight curry of juicy Balscadden Bay lobster with delicate summer vegetables or a robust coffee-roasted grouse served with golden beetroot cooked in lardo, truffled celeriac, Sauce Grand Veneur and toasted croissant sabayon on the side. Imagine the Mediterranean vibes of spankingly fresh turbot Provençal, with tempura of turbot skirt and a gutsy fennel and basil emulsion. For dessert, maybe you’ll be seduced by a signature soufflé or the snow-like vision of a Bergeron apricot confection with wet almonds, yogurt and jasmine soup. Eamonn O’Reilly
The lightness of touch, deft seasoning, precision cooking and artistic presentation make the whole dining experience exquisite. Each dish is theatrical in its beauty and thrilling to taste. Mickael is ably helped in the kitchen by a team that includes the exceptional Mark Moriarty, who was crowned international San Pellegrino Young Chef of the Year in 2015.
Crisp white linen, elegant stemware and delicate tableware set a stylish backdrop for the magnificent cooking, each playing a role in the sense of occasion of dining here. The small, calm room is overseen by industry stalwart Darren Campbell (ex Chapter One and Amuse), who brings a relaxed formality to the space. Sommelier Paul Gartland’s unassuming approach ensures that choosing a wine is a fun and rewarding experience. The truly global list offers vast choice, with everything from entry level pricing (€35) to all the big hitters, and a choice of 19 by the glass, alongside sweet wines, sherry and port.
Two course lunch is €45 and three courses is €55, with a 5-course menu prestige €95 (and you can stay on your table until 5pm, should you wish!) For dinner 4-courses costs €110, with Mickael’s imaginative tasting menu €129, which must be ordered by the whole table.
Earmarked for a décor change at the start of 2020, which will see a reduction in seats and the addition of a private dining space, proprietor Eamonn O’Reilly (who also owns One Pico) is as ready as Mickael to take this outstanding restaurant to even higher levels.
