Named for the Gallic hometown of proprietor Olivier Meisonnave, Dax has been a success since it first opened in an intimate Georgian basement in Pembroke Street in 2004. Olivier honed his front-of-house skills as the charming maitre’D at Kevin Thornton’s much-missed restaurant on St Stephens Green, and his natural people skills found him a ready clientèle for his new venture.
Fast-forward 12 years and Dax, already on the culinary map, welcomed gifted chef Graham Neville, who was Kevin Thornton’s Head Chef when Olivier worked front-of-house there. The duo’s reunion marked one of the most exciting partnerships on the Dublin dining scene and it has proved to be enduring.
Graham’s cooking is sublime – sophisticated, delicate and perfectly balanced, using the best of Irish produce and classical French methods. His menus are an exercise in contemporary sophistication including treasures such as wonderful Annagassan smoked salmon with Clogherhead crab, loin of Wicklow Gap Sika deer, with kale, celeriac and spiced coco sauce, and Celtic Sea turbot with aged Parmesan, fregola sarde & coral sauce. Graham’s signature dish, an Iona Farm courgette flower stuffed with prawns and served in a prawn bisque is the epitome of elegance.
Each dish is perfectly conceived and flawlessly executed, ensuring there’s not a weak dish on the menu. From the excellent soda bread with Cuinneog butter to a selection of Sheridan’s cheese in peak condition, perfect chocolate mousse to dreamy petit fours and quality coffee, dining here is always a memorable treat.
The basement of a fine Georgian building, Dax has a lovely wine bar by the entrance and the dining room features deep pile carpets that elegantly complement the crisp linen table cloths. And there’s and a mix of large tables and two-tops ensuring that everyone, from corporate groups to couples, feels at home.
This Dublin restaurants service is warm, fun and engaging, something that clearly comes from the top down. Wine has always been a priority at Dax and Olivier’s list is, arguably, one of the finest in the country. Unashamedly French you’ll find everything from Grand Cru Bordeaux to affordable Viognier and Picpoul de Pinet alongside good value Spanish and Italians. The choice is vast and will appeal to everyone from the expert to the budget-conscious and those with corporate credit cards.
Tables are always in demand at Dax, but planning ahead for a visit to this wonderful restaurant is guaranteed to be rewarding.
