RELOCATED TO WATERMAN HOUSE & re-branded Waterman Restaurant
A younger sister to Niall and Joanne McKenna’s 'mothership' restaurant, James St, Hadskis is located in a former foundry in the city centre and it's a tribute to the city's great engineering and manufacturing heritage.
The unusual name is in memory of Stewart Hadski, who made pots and pans at the Commercial Court site in the eighteenth century - and, fittingly, locally-inspired hotpots and sustainable fish are now being cooked in pots and pans in the same place.
It’s a long, narrow space with a sociable open pass kitchen and a very well stocked bar that offers an extensive range of spirits as well as the excellent wine list that's a trademark of the McKennas' restaurants. While fairly industrial in style, the floor to ceiling windows in the eating area are a good idea, and there’s no skimping when it comes to quality or portion sizes.
The strongly seasonal menu changes daily and, while that reflects the commitment of both the McKennas and a strong kitchen team to using the best local produce, there’s a Mediterranean influence at play.
Many regulars come specally for the steaks but there's plenty of choice and you can expect some unusual dishes like whole baked fish or roast pheasant and seasonal vegetables, and a daily tart. There are at least two pastas every day, and side dishes such as spinach and lentils are a highlight.
Hadskis is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week and Wine Mondays, where they do 3 courses with wine pairings for about £30, are particularly good value.
All round, an interesting restaurant with efficient and well-informed staff and an appealing combination of tasty seasonal food and good value. One to try.