Located in one of the most attractive old buildings in Howth village, just before the church, The House is run by proprietor Karl Dillon, formerly of Gruel - and, true to form, the menu clearly states a commitment to local, organic and artisan produce.
This Dublin restaurants smart casual interior is quietly stylish with effective lighting, bare tables with bentwood chairs and simple settings. Guests are promptly settled in and drinks offered before choosing from a modestly priced bistro-style menu that includes some unusual dishes, including house-smoked foods.
Starters might include a fish soup, or a selection of James McGeough's renowned charcuterie (from Connemara). Mains follow in the same style of quality ingredients cooked simply, such as a char grilled rib-eye steak or perhaps, venison with a smoked black pudding croquette and spiced lentils - and there may be less usual choices such as cod with crushed potato, pumpkin, cranberries and hazelnuts.
A compact, informative wine list carries through the same philosophy of quality and value for money; beginning with interesting house wines at €25. Finish with a homemade dessert (maybe a yummy orange and almond tart with Bailey’s mascarpone) and delicious Illy coffee.
As well as great food and good cooking, caring service and long opening hours add to the appeal of a meal here, although it can be noisy - and it's a popular place for large groups too, so get there ahead of the crowd if you like to eat in peace.
Reservations essential at weekends.
