Georgina Campbell
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Camden Street has no shortage of dining options, but when Mister S arrived in autumn 2019 it immediately carved out a niche with its irresistible mix of exciting cooking and fun vibes. Opened by Jamie O'Toole and Paul McVeigh, owners of Featherblade, the pair have brought serious barbecuing to Dublin 2, courtesy of an exceptional fire pit.
The bespoke barbecue combines a sunken fire pit with adjustable grills heights allowing for greater control, and two separate hot boxes for gentle hot smoking. A selection of woods, from birch to lemon and apple, are used to great effect by head chef Daniel Hannigan (ex-Richmond) and sous chef Tim Geeves (ex- Smokestak in London). The open kitchen is up a set of steps at the back of the dining room, presiding over everything without interfering with acoustics.
Menus change regularly, but expect to find carefully sourced quality produce, such as free-range organic chicken from Ring Farm in Kilkenny, wonderful free-range pork from Andarl Farm in Galway and Waygu beef from Ridgeway Farm in Wicklow. Fish, such as skate, makes an appearance too from Sustainable Seafood Ireland.
Nibbles might comprise thrillers like burnt-end Rendang spring roll or organic smoked chicken with a piquant romesco sauce. Smoked & Grilled offerings cover ray (or skate) with dashi beurre blanc or exceptional Waygu Cote de Bouef. Sides are no after thought, with brown butter miso roasties and charred hispi cabbage with sobrassada sausage and crumbled feta all knock-outs.
The long narrow room has an urban edge, with poured concrete, minimalist light fittings and recycled wood benches. It’s comfortable and well conceived without looking contrived. Seats are a mix of two-tops, booths that seat six and three counter stools by the window – ideal for solo diners. A long communal table with stools in the lower level is ideal for groups.
Beautiful vintage plates and bowls enhance the no-nonsense plating of each dish. Flavour packed, perfectly cooked and beautifully seasoned, the casual styling of Mister S belies the real expertise at the stove. A concise drinks list, includes 8 wines by the glass and plenty of unusual bottles, micro beers, cider and cocktails.
Given the quality and talent on display, the menu offers remarkably good value. Charming staff have been properly trained and exude enthusiasm, adding to the undeniable appeal of this gem of a restaurant. The S in the name could stand for lots of things… but we’re going for special, superb, sensational: They’re all a perfect fit.
