CLOSING END MAY 2023
Just a two-minute stroll from Bray Dart station through the lively Albert Walk and right on the corner of Bray’s bustling Victorian seafront, Ripasso is in a fantastic location, with plenty of options for a pre- or post-dinner drink close by.
The building was previously home to another Italian eatery, Carpe Diem (and vegetarian restaurant Escape before that), but Ripasso has proved to be a welcome popular alternative. There’s a combination of indoor and outdoor eating, but there’s no need to fret if the only seats left are outside: the outdoor seating area is covered and well-heated, keeping customers sheltered from the unpredictable Irish weather and the cool seaside breeze. There are a few high-backed leather stools at the bar inside, too, which can also be booked - ideal for solo diners or those who fancy dropping in for an aperitivo-style drink and nibble.
With pale wood floors and tabletops adding balance to dark, elegant teal and green walls, and hanging greenery over the bar counter adding a touch of brightness, the décor is warm and welcoming, as are the staff. Service here is excellent: knowledgeable, friendly and attentive, without fussing. Once you take your seat and one of the simply presented tables, you’ll be offered a carafe of water (always quietly replaced before it’s finished), along with menus, a wine list and a small chalkboard with details of the day’s specials. There are always three of these: one starter, one pasta dish and one seafood main.
The focus is Italian dining with a clean, modern feel. The menu evolves slightly through the year, but many of the basics stay the same. Bar snacks include Connemara oysters, mixed nuts, marinated olives, and a sourdough focaccia served with cacio e pepe butter (pecorino cheese and black pepper - such a simple idea, but so very moreish). The starter line-up features antipasti boards in original, veggie and vegan iterations; prawns and ‘nduja on focaccia; and burrata with accompaniments that vary depending on the time of year.
For the main course, it’ll be a tough choice whether to go for pasta, pizza or ‘secondi’ like Andarl Farm pork chops; deep-fried squid and prawns; or a fillet of Irish beef with oyster mushrooms and polenta. The pasta is fresh and the dishes simple, well-crafted and full of flavour - just like in Italy - while the pizzas are thin-based with puffed, charred edges and a gorgeously bright tomato sauce. Some regulars especially love the option of friarelli as a pizza topping: similar to turnip greens, these slightly bitter, lemony veggies add a great counterpoint to the spicy ‘nduja and creamy mozzarella on your pizza.
The wine list here is completely Italian, with a small selection by the glass and an extensive offering by the bottle, beginning at reasonable prices. The team behind Ripasso also owns a small farming business in Liguria, so there’s even a short list of wines from their own vineyards. A selection of beers (mostly Italian, with a few from local brewery Wicklow Wolf) and a few aperitivo suggestions round out the drinks list.
The dessert list is short but comprehensive, featuring classics like tiramisu, affogato and panna cotta alongside a vegan option and a cheese plate (Italian, of course). There’s also the option of cantucci biscuits with passito - a very nice touch - and a couple of digestivo options listed under the coffees.
Bray’s restaurant scene is always evolving but, with half of the seafront is owned by the indomitable Duggans these days, it’s nice to see some independent establishments flourishing too. For many locals, Ripasso has provided a welcome replacement for the much-missed Carpe Diem; offering modern Italian fare in a warm, comfortable setting, this is a great option for date nights or celebratory dinners with friends or family. With fantastic staff and a menu that’s reasonably priced for great quality food and wine, we hope it’s a feature of the seafront for a long time to come.
