Rathmines is a suburb on the up, as evidenced by barista-cool cafés like Two Fifty Square coffee bar and roastery, glossy food stores like Fallon & Byrne and what is easily Dublin’s swishest cinema experience at the re-incarnated Stella Cinema.
The painstaking refurbishment of the famous 1920s cinema exemplifies the considerable investment put into properties by the Press Up Entertainment Group, who have in recent years become one of the city’s most dynamic and prolific players in Dublin’s hospitality industry. Their 30-strong collection now spans from boutique hotels (including The Devlin), speak-easy cocktail haunts (such as Vintage Cocktail Club) and music venues (The Workman’s Club) through mid-market restaurants (Angelina’s) and food halls (Dollard & Co) to fast-food specialists (Wow Burger).
Stella Diner sits about midway on the fast-food-meets-grown-up-dining spectrum offered by the group. Its classic diner fare – burgers, hot dogs, wings and sundaes – has a strong appeal for young families and gossiping teens, as does its cosy booth seating. Meanwhile a fine selection of cocktails draw from the group’s mixology expertise (try the Roe Bo Cop, a blend of Roe & Co Irish whiskey, ginger, kumquats, lime, orange and blood orange; or Edward Rhubarb Hands with Tanqueray London Gin, Violette and rhubarb & cardamom soda) and make a fun prelude to a dinner-and-movie date for those heading next door for the comfiest (and priciest) cinema seats in town.
The all-day menu is conceived as a celebration of American diner classics, all the way from grilled breakfasts, egg sandwiches, omelettes and pancakes through sandwiches, salads and pasta that draw from both sides of the Atlantic (think Stella Reuben or Baked Ham with English Mustard; Caesar or Cobb; spag bol or meatballs). Mains include reassuringly familiar old-school offers like chicken Kiev or a half roast chicken served with fries or buttered mash and market vegetables, while the grill is used for more than just burgers (think pork chop with grilled sage and onion stuffing, gravy; or grilled gammon steak with roast pineapple).
Stella Diner makes a decent stab at offering what you want in a casual neighbourhood joint, with its upbeat atmosphere, broad accessible menu and fast turnover. Repeat business is encouraged with mostly reasonable prices (though it's a pity that their house wine can’t be a little more accessibly priced) and by nice touches like a daily-changing soup (French Onion on Sundays, or Chicken Noodle on Mondays). It’s hardly a destination dining experience in its own right, but in combination with the cinema next door, it's a good bet for a fun night – especially if you order conservatively and stick to the safer bets.
