Re-opened in 2024 following a closure, this Mourne favourite dating back to the 19th century has moved into an exciting new era. Following three decades in the caring ownership of Alison and Michael Crothers, who built up a following far beyond the immediate area for their unique combination of great food, traditional ambience and genuine hospitality, The Bucks Head is now in the very capable hands of a duo of exceptional industry professionals - colleagues Bronagh McCormick and Chef Alex Greene, both of Michael Deane's former Belfast fine dining experience Eipic (now closed), among other distinguished establlshments in Ireland and abroad. But, high-fallutin as that may sound, they are seriously grounded in the food and culture of the area. Both are from Co Down farming families, which tells its own story in both food and ambience, and working here with the Crothers as a youngster was one of the formative experiences that set Alex on his path to become a chef.
Anyone who remembers The Buck's Head Inn, as it was called, will see all of these factors coming into play in the 'new' Bucks Head. Showing respect for all that went before, the pre-opening refurb was completed with a light touch and, while brighter and smarter, it has retained the feel of an inn - and, once the accommodation is up and running, it will indeed be the kind of true inn that we need more of in Ireland, offering rest, relaxation and refreshment, with good food and drink to be enjoyed in convivial company.
Good food is, of course, at the heart of everything here and, despite the fine dining background of both owners, the offering has been thoughtfully tailored to be accessible to all. In the bar you can opt to choose from either the bar menu or the full à la carte - although the lovely spacious and comfortably appointed restaurant, with its bright outlook and view of the open kitchen, is perhaps a more relaxing space in which to enjoy the full menu. Bar menus really do the business for caual meals though, offering outstanding favourites like chowder (with a gorgeous stout & treacle wheaten bread), superb seasonal salads, terrific fish & chips (tempura batter, beef fat chips, mushy peas...), Josper fired Shorthorn burgers and a couple of exceptional Specials - which, if you're lucky, may include a choice of half or whole lobster thermidor with salad. To accompany, the well honed drinks list is not overlong but offers plenty to delight all, whether here for a casual bar meal or a special treat or celebratory outing in the restaurant.
The à la carte ups the ante, as would be expected, and you'll find refinement and special occasion choices here, but this is not show-off cooking and there's some overlap with the bar menu - that lovely heritage vegetable salad and their ace BH chowder, for example, feature on both, also some gorgeously upbeat renditions of classic desserts. Hereford beef from the Josper charcoal oven takes pride of place on the main menu - to be replaced on Sunday, by a quartet of roasts and other appealing mains like grilled whole plaice (not something you see every day). And the creative focus on flavour-packed local seasonal vegetables makes for interesting vegetarian dishes too, so it's easy to see the Bucks Head becoming the go-to venue for weekend get togethers.
A place where 'old charm meets new flare' is how Bronagh and Alex describe the Bucks Head, 'a home away from home' - and that kind of thinking is sure to make them a lot of friends.
