A hit with happy locals since opening in summer 2022 - and now, increasingly, a destination for visitors to the city - Sean Lafferty's buzzy bistro is an ever-evolving labour of love. Bringing together great Asian and Japanese cooking ('Asian fusion with a twist') inspired by adventurous travels and the region's wonderful larder, the result is an innovative take on Asian food - and it's a fun place to be with its disco ball and (not too loud) music giving it a bit of a nightlife vibe.
A simple restaurant on the face of it, with polished concrete floors, cement grey walls lifted by fabric touches with hibiscus colours and their shocking pink logo, pared back table settings (choice of cutlery or chopsticks). it's packaged to create a relaxing space away from the busy street outside - and, from the open kitchen and excellent well-informed staff to exceptional attention to detail (note the branded ice cubes), the care that Sean and his team put into Umi on a daily basis is everywhere for all to see.
While best known for their Japanese Sushi (five different varieties, some showcasing the freshest of seafood from Donegal Prime Fish) there's plenty else on Umi's seasonally-led menu to please the wide range of multi-generational customers who have become regulars. Dumplings, Bahn mi (an Asian baguette), some Korean favourites, Thai curries - and steaks like nothing you're likely to find elsewhere. After Sushi the menu (which changes often) is divided into Small Plates / tapas style starters and Large Plates / mains, like a Duck Confit with an Asian Cucumber salad, Panang style curries and Seabass treated with a Yuzu Buttermilk dressing. Vegetarians and Vegans are well catered for in a dedicated section of the menu, offering the likes of Vegan Thai Green Curry and Korean Kimchi Bao Buns, and other dietary requests are easily sorted. Plates delivered from the kitchen 'Asian tapas style' as they are ready are a delight to the senses: Tuna sushi, dainty and fresh complete with its soya dip; hot meals are scented to fill the table. Light crisp and zingy Crispy Pork Dumplings are savoured by many and rightly so, spongey Bao buns with fresh fillings, soft shell crab options are so shareable..
And then there are the sides, which are very much a cut above - Korean Dirty Fries tossed with miso butter, gochujang (fermented chilli paste), spring onions and sesame; Kimchi Cabbage, Jasmine rice or a salad of bitter leaves dressed with Palm sugar and lime juice.
If you have to choose just one side, don't miss the Stir-Fry Greens - the best bowl of greens ever, it's typically charred beans mixed with cabbage leaves, edamame and sugar snaps, all tossed with spice and sesame...
Desserts are also given a lot of thought - European staples like Brûlées and Iced Parfaits are given a lift with oriental twists, while Pre-dessert treats and Petit Fours include home made jelly flavours (blueberry & lime, perhaps, or Mango, made like a pâte de fruits) add a nice classic touch that many kitchens fail to do - as do exquisite chocolates hand made locally by the wonderful Monto Mansour.
When it comes to the drinks menu you'll find the same degree of TLC - and a surprise, as this modest venue not only has a good offering across the board, with imaginative cocktails, craft beers and appealing non alcoholic options listed, but thanks to their connection with winemaker Jack McAteer and Austria's biodynamic Diwald estate, they even have their own red (Rainbow Pie) and two whites (Shiro and Kin). And yes, do ask about these and possibly others that are in the making - Sean often checks on tables himself and the super helpful servers are informative in every area, guiding guests through the menu with ease and offering suggestions, pointing out the spicier offerings and helping with drinks.
Lunch service is perfect for a speedy break, relaxing to a slower tempo in the evening - and always served with a delightful combination of Derry humour and Japanese efficiency. Umi has brought Derry city a brilliant alternative to the normal grazing and their many returning customers are testament to the quality and value offered. The kitchen repertoire is impressive and constantly changing, the food is always spot on and the simple hospitality is genuine. All in all a neat package and a place to seek out when visiting this vibrant city.
*** In late 2025, Sean Lafferty and fellow Strand Road chef Gary Moran opened Umi Foyleside, a little unit on the ground floor of the Foyleside Shopping Centre. Here they do a selection of small servings to snack on as takeaways - no seating, but there are a couple of standing areas alongside. The choice is much like the small plate selection in the restaurant - maybe the Salmon and Avocado Maki rolls (just like the mother ship, fresh and generous); also the hugely popular Crispy pork dumplings with chilli nut rayu dressing ( always light, crispy and doused with the dressing - perfection). Consistently good and well worth knowing about.
