At this temple to superb wine and great food in the old Silver Tassie venue, wine industry veteran David Whelehan has assembled a seriously impressive team around him – including Martina Delaney, who garnered many admirers during her tenure as sommelier in l’Ecrivain. Located just off the N11, this all-day emporium is well worth the small detour when passing or indeed a special trip of its own.
No matter what time of day, expect suitable refreshments served in the bright wine bar at the back of the building – from freshly baked pastries with a ‘blend W’ coffee roasted to bespoke specs in Wicklow, through lunch (perhaps taken on the terrace with its retractable roof) to afternoon nibbles and full-blown evening meals. But only a fool would pay a visit and not spend some time – and well-spent money – in the wonderful wine store at the heart of this operation.
The spacious store has been laid out to ensure that browsing is a pleasurable process for every level of wine lover: explanations are engaging and accessible, and the wines themselves are a delight, with some interesting representations from many of Ireland’s best importers alongside Whelehan’s exclusive imports directly from small wineries they know and love, alongside a well-curated selection from Irish craft beer and cider producers.
Staff such as Wine Store Manager Gavin Watchorn are happy to share their considerable knowledge, and always have various bottles open for tasting – worth the stop-off alone!
If you have time, however, it’s worth sticking around to sample chef Nick Clapham’s excellent delivery of crowd-pleasing dishes. A large bottle of Melgarejo’s aromatic Arbequina olive oil on each table is like a statement of reassurance that the emphasis on quality sourcing extends from the wine through to the food; there's a supplier list on the menu and some producers are name checked in dishes too - and the high standard shows on the plate and the palate.
The menu itself suggests this kitchen aims to cheer rather than challenge – think bruschetta al pomodoro or chicken liver parfait, followed by seafood linguine or beef bourguignon – but with dishes this classic, the clincher is in the execution.
Expect generous portions of quality ingredients (potted Lambay crab perhaps with with celeriac, chilli and coriander remoulade, served with some nicely fresh, well-dressed leaves), handled with sensitivity, skill and a steady hand. The few more experimental dishes such as arancini (fried risotto balls) of duck, wild mushroom and Boilie Goat’s cheese are steady-handed in their balance of flavours, and presented with smears of sundried tomato pesto and squiggles of balsamic reduction to keep things in familiar territory.
This is a kitchen that knows how to cook fish à point and extract serious flavour from shellfish, so seafood lovers shouldn’t overlook the fish specials; meanwhile carnivores are well served (perfectly cooked pork belly with white truffle mash and apple sauce, perhaps or various steaks with gratin potato, French beans and Alsace bacon, and a choice of garlic butter or mushroom or pepper sauce).
Unapologetically old-school desserts like an excellent sticky toffee pudding (brilliantly paired with a Krohn 10-year-old Tawny Port) provide pure comfort, as does the selection of cheeses from Sheridans.
Of course, a meal here is incomplete without a foray into the fantastic wines on hand: any bottle from the store is available to drink in-house with a flat €8 corkage (rewarding drinkers of premium wines), while an extensive choice of wines by the glass starts at €5 for a 125ml glass of the ‘W’ Wine of the Week and ranges up to an excellent value €8 for a 175ml glass of text-book Chablis.
Service is solid, under the experienced eye of restaurant manager Amanda Gill, with the able support of Jenny Campbell and sommelier Martina Delaney.
Upstairs, a newly built tasting room holds great potential, with plans in development for a wine school as well as the regular tasting events that are already part of the superb Whelehans’ offer.
Since its 2014 opening, Whelehans has become a local favourite but its accessibility just off the M50 make it a smart choice for a jaunt, especially if you can secure a designated driver.
