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Campagne

Set in the corner of a paved area adjacent to the old arches of the disused Kilkenny/ Portlaoise railway line (effectively back lit at night), a smart sage green canopy over sage green woodwork and half frosted full length glass windows will lead you to this eagerly-awaited new restaurant – Garrett Byrne, former head chef at Dublin’s celebrated Chapter One, has now returned home to Kilkenny and opened his own restaurant with his partner and restaurant manager, Brid Hannon.

Although is on the ground floor of a new building, Garrett and Brid have chosen a rustic style - in tune with a passionately held food philosophy that will ensure the involvement of local food producers in the cooking - for their well-named, French-inspired restaurant.

The dark oak floored room is almost triangular in shape, with an open kitchen and a small bar along one light oak-panelled wall, and a set of striking abstract paintings on another. A third wall in deep aubergine features a trio of oval mirrors, and the curves are repeated stylishly through the centre of the restaurant, where three semi-circular banquettes enclosing tables for four to six create a serpentine loop that dominates the room.

Seriously set up for the relaxed enjoyment of good food, generous tables sport crisp white linen, comfortable leather chairs or banquette seating, and smart cutlery and glasses, but no flowers.

The welcome is warm and professional, the complimentary homebaked breads are lovely, and Garrett’s predictably interesting à la carte menu offers a wide range of tempting dishes that balance the luxurious with the rustic - starters may include a celeriac soup with pancetta and mustard cream (€8) alongside a terrine of foie gras and suckling pig with beetroot purée & walnut dressing (€12), for example, and other choices include a beautifully presented gravad lax (€11), served with pickled cucumber and shaved fennel & potato salad, whilst deep fried haddock (perfectly cooked with very crisp batter) comes with organic poached egg and scallion hollandaise.

Mains are focused firmly on rusticity, with slow cooking a feature in dishes like slow cooked beef, with mushrooms, caramelized shallots and smoked bacon (€28), and slow roast breast of veal, with lentils, organic carrots and pesto (€27); Irish traditions are seen in a dish of free range pork chop, with black pudding, creamed cabbage and mustard (€26) and, although the balance offered reflects the rural traditions of the area, there will be some fish too (sea bream, perhaps €26, or fillet of brill €29).

Everything is beautifully cooked and full of flavour and - despite the rustic theme – presentation is sophisticated.

Desserts might include a decadent Gateau Opéra with ice cream, and luscious Sauternes custard and Agen prunes (both €9).

A compact, well-chosen wine list suits the style and the menu, but there are no half bottles and the mark-up is steep. House wines €25.

Although only recently open at the time of our visit, there was a lovely ambience and, under Brid Hannon’s direction, the delicious food was served efficiently by well trained and friendly staff.

The style may be informal here, but it’s an extremely professional operation and there are many little details to give a sense of occasion – all of which should help to justify the prices charged.

Directions:

Just off John’s Green, very near the railway station and McDonagh Junction Shopping Centre.