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Deanes Restaurant

Devoted followers of Northern Ireland's most exceptional dining experience, Restaurant Michael Deane, feared the worst during the recent closure of the prolific chef's brasserie and fine dining restaurant and, unsurprisingly, the rumour machine went into overdrive, predicting the imminent demise of this esteemed chef's business.

But, following a major makeover, the two former city centre hot spots merged, transformed into one elegant fine dining restaurant - how Mr Deane must now be smiling at his doubters as, once again, he has established himself as one of Ireland's foremost chefs and restaurateurs.

The renovations have in no way compromised on comfort, and diners can enjoy pre-dinner drinks in the elegant bar and lounge area before exploring the brightly lit, minimalist dining room. The smart, attentive and knowledgeable staff, under the direction of affable Maître d', Alain Ker'loch provide unobtrusive professional service while, behind the open kitchen service hatch, head chef Derek Creagh works his magic, and what magic!

And, as always, the ever-present Deane meticulously controls the pace of events and timing of food to perfection. An evening á la carte menu offers six choices on each course and reads deceptively simply, yet it is anything but basic and offers many luxury ingredients, artistically prepared in dishes of great refinement.

As ever, wonderful breads come with tapenade, olive oil and balsamic vinegar, leading you into a meal that is sure to be a memorable experience by any standards and is, if anything, enhanced by the limited choice and simple menu offering. Typically, you will find creative, perfectly judged starters like John Dory in crisped cous cous, with basil tapenade and tomato & fennel broth, or carpaccio of Oisin venison, with panfried sweetbreads and summer mushrooms, baby leaves & almond butter vinaigrette, and an irresistible speciality of saddle back pork belly with roast langoustine, savoy cabbage, black pudding & apple caramel.

Main courses may include a stunning poached and roast fillet of dry-aged Fermanagh beef with braised ox cheek, triple cooked chips and sauce Bordelaise with bone marrow executed to perfection, and with great depth of flavour (the highlight of a recent visit) and, perhaps an updated classic of grilled whole Dover sole served with cured cucumber, brown shrimp, capers and lemon & parsley butter; every dish is brilliantly executed, eye-catching and - something which is missing in too many restaurants - has real depth of flavour.

Desserts are also a strong point, including such treats as warm pistachio tart with a sublime blood orange & rose water sorbet, and a warm peach tart fine with a subtle white pepper ice cream. Lunch menus offer a good range of more informal dishes, but the same high standards apply.

The new restaurant certainly marks a departure from the more formal style of Restaurant Michael Deane - it is more open and airy, and extras such as the Menu Prestige, amuse bouches and pre-desserts are no longer offered; however, this in no way makes the dining experience any less enjoyable and cooking by Deane and Creagh remains the yardstick against which all serious cooking in Northern Ireland and, indeed, further afield should be judged.

An appropriate wine list includes a champagne menu and many classic treats, as well as some more accessible bottles and a page of wines available by the glass and, as always, the discreet advice given to match wines with the food is outstanding.

The first floor restaurant is available by arrangement for private parties.

Deanes Restaurant : Seats 60 (private room, 40); air conditioning; toilets wheelchair accessible; children welcome. L Mon-Sat 12-3, D Mon-Sat 5.30-10.30. Set L £16.50; early D £16.50/22.50, 2/3 courses, 5.30-7pm; also A la carte; SC discretionary (10% on parties of 6+). Closed Sun; 24-26 Dec, Jul 12-14. *'Deanes Deli', a New York style all day deli dining experience is around the corner at 44 Bedford Street (see entry). Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Switch.

Directions:

From back of City Hall, about 150m towards M1, on left .