Deservedly hailed as Northern Ireland’s premier restaurant for many years, chef Michael Deane’s Howard Street restaurant has undergone major changes of late. It remains an icon of excellence, but a new style is developing.
After flooding early in 2010, the restaurant was closed for several months. Although disastrous at the time, in the long term the essential revamp that followed has – perhaps like the much-publicised loss of Northern Ireland’s only Michelin star - turned out to be a blessing in disguise. A dramatically changing dining scene has seen new customer demands emerging, and restaurants have had to change with them.
Passers-by may still see only this Belfast restaurants same understated grey exterior but, once inside, the warmth of sumptuous reds creates an ambience that is both welcoming and relaxing – while sparkling chandeliers and the luxurious fabric of window dressings convey an air of discreet luxury to the restaurant’s ‘French brasserie’ style.
True to form, Deane understands better than anyone the dual demand for quality and casual (and, by implication, less expensive) dining out – and so offers the choice of fine dining in the restaurant or at the exclusive upstairs dining room, The Circle, and a more casual option at the relaxed Deanes Seafood Bar next door.
The most significant change has been the introduction of Deanes Seafood Bar, which has its own entrance but is adjacent to the restaurant and opens into it. Quite small, with tightly packed tables and an informal style, it was an immediate hit with local diners who adore the casual vibe, the bistro menu and the keen prices – all with the same great cooking that is the Deanes trademark. It’s especially busy at lunchtime, when there’s a terrific buzz – and no wonder with a £6.50 lunch menu on the table.
In the restaurant, where a calmer atmosphere prevails, an à la carte menu offers about six choices on each course and reads deceptively simply, yet it is anything but basic and offers artistically prepared dishes with many named ingredients, both locally sourced (Belfast smoked salmon, Strangford scallops, Fermanagh chicken), and from other regions of speciality (Sainte Maure goats cheese, for example).
At lunch time and pre-theatre, a shorter à la carte is also offered and the value is good. Outstanding homemade breads (£4) come with the best tapenade, olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar, promising a memorable experience.
Starters are in the £5-7.50 bracket, mains £10.50-14.50 – and any 2 courses are just £17.50. And the wine offering matches the menu, with a ‘tasting glass’ included at just £2.50 as well as the standard glass and carafe measures.
Head chef Simon Toye continues to cook many dishes that have become synonymous with Deanes, including a beautifully presented, fresh-flavoured signature starter of pan fried Strangford scallops with young vegetables.
Main courses may include timeless classics like a stunningly tender and well flavoured char-grilled 28 day aged sirloin triple cooked chips and green beans, with sauce foyoté (a variation on béarnaise), which is precisely executed; and, perhaps, an enduringly popular main course of whole dover sole meunière, with pak choi, brown shrimps cucumber & curry scented olive oil. Accomplished cooking allows the more-ish flavours and textures of each perfectly judged dish to star.
Desserts are predictably irresistible and a luscious “soft centred’’ chocolate cake with broken honeycomb & vanilla ice-cream, enjoyed by the Guide on a recent visit, is a treat to seek out again.
The cheese trolley offers an exceptional choice of artisan French and Irish cheeses, expertly served at the table in peak condition by maitre’d Alain Kerloch’s dynamic team.
Prices are very fair for the standard of food and service offered, and pre-theatre/lunch menus are outstanding value for money, offering a good range of carefully selected dishes with the same high standards applying. At the other end of the spectrum, a daily six-course local produce 'Menu Surprise' is offered which, for harmony of service, must be ordered by all guests at the table.
An appropriate wine list includes a champagne menu, seasonal wine suggestions and many classic treats; an interesting page of 'Try Something Different' suggestions includes plenty of accessible bottles that should encourage diners to be more adventurous. There are also plenty of wines available by the half bottle and glass and, as always, the discreet advice given to match wines with the food is outstanding.
Deane and his ever evolving team have for many years spearheaded modern food in Belfast, and continue to provide discerning Northern Ireland diners with a cuisine choice of exceptional quality.
Those seeking a one-off (and distinctly theatrical) dining experience should try a visit to the first floor dining room, The Circle gastro club, where Chef’s Table, tasting menus and a 'grazing menu' are offered (Thu-Sat evenings).
* Deanes Restaurant was the Guide’s Restaurant of the Year in 2008.
Seats 100 (private room, 45). L Mon-Sat 12-3, D Mon-Sat 5.30-10. Set L £17.50 (Seafood Bar L £7.50, also à la carte); value D £17.50 6-7pm; 6 course gourmet D £60; also à la carte L&D. House wine £14. SC 10%; air conditioning; toilets wheelchair accessible; children welcome. Closed Sun; Bank Hols, 24-26 Dec, Jul 12-18. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Switch.
