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St. Clerans Country House

Once the home of the film director John Huston, St Clerans is a magnificent 18th century manor house on 45 acres of gardens and grounds, beautifully located in rolling countryside.

It was carefully restored some years ago by previous owner, the American entertainer Merv Griffin, and decorated with no expense spared to make a sumptuous, hedonistically luxurious country retreat and restaurant.

There's a great sense of fun about the furnishing and everything is of the best possible quality; reception rooms include a magnificently flamboyant drawing room and spacious bedrooms that are individually decorated and have peaceful garden and countryside views; most are done in what might best be described as an upbeat country house style, while others - particularly those on the lower ground floor, including John Huston's own favourite room, which opens out on to a terrace with steps up to the garden - are restrained, almost subdued, in atmosphere.

All are spacious, with luxuriously appointed bathrooms (one has its original shower only) and a wonderful away-from-it-all feeling. Housekeeping is immaculate, and there has been a discernible sense of purposeful new management on recent visits by the Guide.

Banqueting (40), free broadband wi/fi. Equestrian, fishing, golf and hunting nearby. Croquet, walking.

Rooms 12 (6 junior suites, 6 executive. 1 shower only, 4 gound floor). B&B €200 pps, no ss. Children under 11 years free in parents room; cots available free of charge; baby sitting arranged. Closed 24-26 Dec.

Restaurant:

The restaurant, which is open to non-residents by reservation, provides an elegant setting for cooking by Japanese head chef Hisashi Kumagai (Kuma).

The room has lovely views of pastoral east Galway, including a fine tree which dominates a near meadow, and is floodlit at night; it is an impressive room and appointments are quite classical, with plain white linen-clad tables, fine glassware, silver, and china and gold candle holders.

Aperitifs are served in the drawing room by a turf fire, to muted strains of Chopin and Beethoven (but not from the grand piano that suits the room so well). 4-course set dinner menus, printed on parchment-like paper tied with ribbon, offer a choice of 4 or 5 dishes on each course. Kuma is an accomplished chef, ingredients are always the very best and his food is beautifully presented: Kinvara smoked organic salmon is served with citrus argan oil, Reggiano parmesan cheese and mesclum mixed salad to make a starter that is as healthy as it is beautiful, and an equally exceptional main course dish is roulade of roasted loin of lamb with sundried tomato & pesto.

Desserts might include an unusual créme de menthe, dark chocolate & green tea mousse with Franjelico white chocolate sauce.

The wine list offers some treats and is under constant revision; it includes a good choice of half bottles.

Service by local staff is charming and attentive and, overall, local diners are fortunate to have this rare gem within striking distance of Galway city.

Seats 30. D 7-9pm daily, €65; house wine from €25. SC discretionary. Closed 24-26 Dec. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser

Directions:

4km (2 miles) off N6 between Loughrea and Craughwell