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The Tannery

Discerning diners from all over Ireland (and beyond) make a beeline for Paul and Maire Flynn's stylish contemporary restaurant, which is in an old leather warehouse - the tannery theme is echoed throughout the light, clean-lined interior, creating a pleasingly historic atmosphere in a modern setting.

Arriving guests can see Paul and his team at work in the open kitchen on their way upstairs to the first-floor dining area, which is bright and welcoming, with dramatic paintings, fresh flowers and smart, simple table settings. Ten years after opening both the style and the room itself feel fresh, which is rarely the case with minimalism.

Menus are also wonderfully simple but the food tastes very exciting; while inspired to some extent by global trends and regional cooking, particularly of the Mediterranean countries, menus have a strongly Irish feeling and are based mainly on local ingredients, which Paul supports avidly and sources with care - notably local seafood of course, also meats including pork and bacon supplied by renowned local butcher JD Power.

Simplicity is of the essence here, and there are no amuse bouches; what is certain to be an outstanding meal cuts straight to the chase with superb starters (a perfect mariniére of mussels and clams, perhaps, with a few garlicky herby crumbs thrown on top and a delicious wine and herb broth with spoon provided; one of many classics revisited).

An unusual main course that illustrates the skill of this exceptional chef is described simply as slow cooked beef: it is in fact ox cheek and arrives under a salad of shallot and leaves - tender enough to eat with a spoon, it is still gelatinous enough to not be in the least dry. A triumph of a dish.

Even hardened food critics are continually surprised by Paul Flynn's cooking which, as one fellow chef put it, "makes dishes which one thought one knew taste as if one was eating them for the first time". Presentation is good and all the better for being plain - not too much height, and not too many useless drops about the plate; occasionally a dish may look a little bizarre - a lasagne of rabbit shredded like rillettes, for example - but you can be sure that it will taste extremely good. An Irish farmhouse cheese platter is invariably a highlight, and the dessert menu offers plenty of treats - but, here too, the maverick genius is at work and you will find novelty alongside the conventional chocolate confections - anyone for mango ice cream on a piece of toasted bread and cheese? But, yes, it works - and you will love it.

And giving good value has always been a notable feature of The Tannery: the á la carte is very fairly priced for food of this quality, but the lunch and early evening menus (both changed daily) are outstandingly good value.

Attentive and efficient service, an interesting and kindly-priced wine list (which offers lots of cheaper choices for this style of restaurant, also a welcome page of half bottles) and, above all, Paul's exceptional cooking, make for memorable meals.

*The Tannery was our Restaurant of the Year in 2004. ** Paul Flynn is the consultant chef for the new restaurant, Balzac, in Dublin (see entry).

Toilets wheelchair accessible. Children welcome. Seats 60 (+ 30 downstairs, private room, 30). L Tue-Fri & Sun, 12.30-2.15 (Sun to 2.30); D Tue-Sat, 6.30-9.30. Early D €28 (Tue-Fri, 6.30-7.15); Set Sun L €30; house wine €22; sc discretionary (10% on parties of 6+). Closed Mon, Sat L, also D Sun; annual closure 2 weeks end Jan, 1 week Sept.

Rooms:

Accommodation is offered in a boutique guesthouse just around the corner, in Church Street; while not quite up to the exceptionally high standard of the restaurant, it is comfortable and very convenient.

Public areas of the house are very bright and funky but, while also contemporary, the seven double rooms and a self-catering apartment are furnished more calmly; a continental breakfast is organised so that you can have it in your room


Rooms 7 (all en-suite, 2 shower only), children welcome (under 4s free in parents' room, cots available at no charge); B&B €60 pps or €80 pps for superior room, ss €10. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser

Directions:

End of lower main street beside old market house.