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INSIDE OMOS - ABBEYLEIX’S AMBITIOUS NEW HOSPITALITY PROJECT

A recent pre-opening trip to visit Chef Cúán Greene’s emerging Laois gem Ómós, offered Sharon Noonan a coveted glimpse into one of Ireland’s most anticipated hospitality openings - a project now at an advanced stage of construction, with opening scheduled for July.

With well-established treasures like Bramley, Mueller & O'Connell Bakery and, of course the wonderful old Morrissey’s Pub, already attracting fans to this historic village, Abbeyleix is not short of good things to shout about when it comes to eating and drinking – and that’s all about to move up several gears with the announcement that bookings have gone live for Chef Cúán Greene’s Ómós, which opens this summer.
Cúán (formerly of Bastible, Noma, and Geranium) has been chronicling the development of this unique project in his weekly newsletter The Omos Digest so the excitement has been building, and getting the chance of a pre-opening peak was an offer too good to miss.

Ómós (meaning homage, duty, and respect in Irish) is no ordinary restaurant. The visit began at Millbrook House, a handsome 1885 red brick residence on the edge of the Abbey Leix House Estate that was formerly home to the Viscounts de Vesci. Pictured here at the beginning of the Ómós project in 2024, the house, along with its converted adjoining stables, will soon accommodate 16 guest rooms, including an accessible room and a dog friendly option. Cúán first came across Millbrook House en route to a private chef engagement for Stripe billionaire and Limerick/Tipperary native John Collison, at his Abbeyleix House and Farm. Discussions between the two about the building’s potential laid the groundwork for what is now Ómós. Photography was not permitted during the extensive tour, but some images provided earlier give a sense of the project and what we found was a site alive with momentum and the grounds were a hive of activity, with tradespeople from every sector working across the buildings, courtyards, and landscaped areas.

From Millbrook House, the group visited the emerging 40 seat restaurant, a new build designed around the idea of a traditional Irish farmstead with a copper roofed structure. Entry to the restaurant is through a central. courtyard, where beautiful magnolia trees have been planted. It includes a private dining space overlooking a pond, which is sure to be in great demand, and there is also a market garden in development Chefs will work within the dining room itself, offering guests an unobstructed view of the kitchen team at work. One notable detail in this area is the staff facilities, which are designed to match the standard provided for guests - a clear indication that staff wellbeing is a priority embedded in the project from the outset.

Greene was joined on the tour by General Manager Patrick Healy, formerly of Cashel Palace, and chef Matt Smith, previously of the wonderful East Galway destination Lignum. Also on board is Ryan Lally of Grá Pizza, who will lead the bakery programme. For now, the team is working from a test kitchen in an old model school in Athy, experimenting with ingredients and processes ahead of opening.

A strong emphasis on Irish craft and thoughtfully sourced materials runs through the project; tables and chairs crafted in Wicklow, and ceramics by David Holden in Dingle. This commitment extends to Greene’s family: his mother, the renowned artist Róisín de Buitléar, will contribute stained glass elements to the property, adding a personal and artistic dimension to the interiors.
Throughout the tour, Greene emphasised how networking and collaboration have been central to shaping Ómós. Many of the partnerships — from producers to craftspeople to the core team — have grown organically through conversations and shared values.
The visit concluded on a high with a stop at the iconic Morrissey’s of Abbeyleix, a gesture that reflects Greene’s commitment to supporting local businesses. He spoke passionately about encouraging future guests to spend time in the village and contribute to the local economy. For him, Ómós is not an isolated destination but part of a wider ecosystem he hopes to help strengthen.

Bookings for July-September are open now – and we can’t wait!

Originally from Ballymena, Co Antrim and a graduate of Queen’s University Belfast, Sharon Noonan lives in West Limerick and works in the Irish food, drink, hospitality, and tourism sectors. A member of the Irish Food Writers’ Guild, she presents Ireland’s longest-running food and drink podcast, Best Possible Taste and has also produced 2 BAI-funded radio documentaries – “Devlins’ Yellowman – A Taste of Childhood” and “What a BLASt – Celebrating 10 Years of the Irish Food Awards.”