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Rachel Gaffney’s Letter From Texas - Hillsborough Castle & Gardens

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas shares her experience of a visit to Hillsborough in County Down – a destination that rewards slow travel and curiosity, and one that lingers in the memory long after the visit ends.

Just 20 minutes south of Belfast, the picturesque village of Royal Hillsborough deserves far more than a passing stop. If you are planning a visit, I would strongly suggest allowing a full day to properly appreciate the village and the beautiful Hillsborough Castle and Gardens. Last month I finally had the opportunity to tour Hillsborough Castle, the royal residence when members of the Royal Family are in Northern Ireland. While the Georgian elegance of the house is impressive in its own right, what struck me most was how successfully the Castle manages to bring history to life in a way that feels relevant and engaging rather than overly formal. This year, visitors have an added reason to visit. The magnificent State Dining Room has been transformed into The Benjamin Franklin Dining Room for a year, to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the American Declaration of Independence.

A fascinating collection of objects associated with the renowned American statesman is on display until February 2027 - some on loan from the American Philosophical Society and the National Archives at Kew, alongside items from Historic Royal Palaces’ own collection - offering a thought-provoking link between Northern Ireland and early American history. American Founding Father Benjamin Franklin visited Hillsborough Castle in 1771 to discuss colonial matters with Lord Hillsborough, then Secretary of State for the Colonies. During his stay, Franklin would have dined in this very room, a detail that gives the grand surroundings an unexpectedly intimate sense of occasion. Standing there, it is difficult not to imagine the conversations that may have unfolded within those walls during such a pivotal period in history.
Whilst walking from room to room, I particularly enjoyed the balance between grandeur and warmth. Unlike some historic properties that can feel distant or overly curated, Hillsborough Castle retains a welcoming atmosphere – and a lovely feature that can be seen by the public when the royals are not in residence is an endearingly homely drawing room, with comfy sofas and an informal portrait of the late Queen beside the fireplace. The guides are knowledgeable without being theatrical, and there is a quiet confidence throughout the property that allows the stories to speak for themselves.
The Castle’s more recent political history is equally compelling. During the peace process in Northern Ireland, preparatory discussions leading to the Good Friday Agreement took place within these very rooms. At the time, the Castle was home to Secretary of State Mo Mowlam. It is extraordinary to think that conversations held here helped shape events that ultimately led to the signing of the historic Good Friday Agreement on April 10, 1998.

Beyond the Castle interiors, the gardens alone warrant several leisurely hours. One of the highlights is the beautifully designed Jubilee Parterre (a formal style of garden in which planting beds are laid out symmetrically and connected by pathways edged with tightly clipped box hedging), originally created to commemorate Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012 and redesigned in 2016 by celebrated landscape designer Catherine Fitzgerald. The result here is elegant and serene.
Outside the Castle gates, the village is charming, with its Georgian architecture. It encourages wandering without an agenda, perhaps stopping for coffee (although there is also good casual fare to be found at the Castle itself), browsing local boutiques, or simply admiring the elegant streetscape that has earned the village such affection from visitors and locals alike. Royal Hillsborough may be conveniently close to Belfast, but it feels pleasantly removed from city life. It is a destination that rewards slow travel and curiosity and one that lingers in the memory long after the visit ends.