MOVED TO THOMASTOWN
Kilkenny or Carlow, take your pick - the picturesque twinned riverside villages of Tinnahinch and Graiguenamanagh (known jointly as 'Graigue' and generally attributed to Kilkenny) flank the wonderful old arched bridge across the River Barrow at this historic place - and one of its most recently settled treasures is the serenely atmospheric Barrows Keep
It's owned by Stephen McArdle and Morgan VanderKamer, well known to Dublin diners from their previous business Stanley's Restaurant and Wine Bar (winner of our Wine Award in 2016), and now delighted with their new life, the beautiful surroundings - and the extraordinary range of local producers that they've been getting to know since arriving here in 2017.
This is reflected in their mission statement, which reads: “Our goal at Barrows Keep has been to source as locally as possible and, where possible, organically. We consistently focus on small producers who are making a stamp on the local area. We strive to work seasonally and feature produce on our menus that reflects the seasons offerings.”
A wonderful philosophy and one that explains the exceptional flavour of Stanley's beautifully cooked food - not fussy or showy, just thoughtfully created, very seasonal and enticingly presented. The setting is delightful - a long room with a bar and a glimpse of the kitchen at one end, carefully designed lighting, an eclectic collection of artwork and photographs, and very comfortable seating at white linen-clad tables graced with seasonal flowers (how lovely to see Lily’s Field Drummond wild flowers on the suppliers list).
Stephen's pleasingly compact monthly-changed menus offer just three or four choices on each course, and who could wish for more when they include starters like organic lightly cured salmon with organic vegetables à la grèque, a main course of Paul Barron 5-week fillet beef with shallot purée, scallion & girolle, or a celebratory whole Fethard lobster with chips & organic salad...
Vegetarian dishes like Nick Hill's beets with candied walnuts, pickled girolles and Cashel Blue appeal to all and (unusually) there is plenty of seasonal fruit to enjoy in desserts too, or luscious dishes such as red gooseberries with olive oil sponge and elderflower fool.
All this and immaculate, warmly professional service - and, for many, the highlight of a visit here (and a speciality that brings connoisseurs from a wide area) is the wine offering. They work with about a dozen wine suppliers and Morgan's list, which changes every couple of months, is carefully selected to encourage guests to try less familiar wines - they use the Coravin system, enabling them to offer special wines by the glass. Morgan still hosts her wine club as often as possible too, and they take part in local events such as Graiguenamanagh's famous 'Town of Books' festival (late August) and Savour Kilkenny (late October).
All round Barrows Keep is a wonderful destination, and a must-visit for any food - or wine - lover coming to this hauntingly beautiful area.
