When James Sheridan and Soizic Humbert started Canteen in Blackrock Market, in the premises now occupied by Heron & Grey, the tiny kitchen limited James Sheridan to a set menu and a very small number of guests.
Since they re-located to a larger and lovelier space in Celbridge in 2016, everything at Canteen has been taken up a notch. The menu is still short, but now there is choice, and there will be something on it to appeal to everyone, from the plain eaters to those in search of something more adventurous. Dishes appear on both lunch and dinner menus so, whether you are catching up with friends over dinner or enjoying Sunday lunch with friends, the choices will be equally appealing.
Three or four choices are offered on each course so a curious group of four might manage to eat every dish on the menu - which, in summer, could mean everything from a simple heritage tomato, mozzarella and artichoke salad with basil pesto, to a summery pea soup topped with a poached duck's egg and shards of duck confit to (a favourite) charred mackerel with an oyster emulsion, Granny Smith apple, cucumber and radish.
For main courses there might be haunch of venison with the depth of flavour that only comes from long and slow cooking, accompanied perhaps by chestnut, salt-baked beetroot, orange and pepper sauce. A popular fish main is wild brill, with buckwheat, violet artichoke, burnt apple puree and cider sauce.
On the side are vegetables – kale, parmesan and garlic- doused in butter and baby potatoes. The quality of ingredients is evident and some are name checked – Carlingford oysters for example and Feighcullen duck - although it would be interesting to hear more about suppliers.
Vegetarians are well looked after with a two-course menu that includes Jerusalem artichoke & mushroom tart to start, followed by salt baked beetroot and smoked sheep cheese agnolotti.
For pudding, there may be mandarin mille feuilles with orange and mascarpone cream or passion fruit souffle while a summer treat is Wexford strawberries, some macerated, some not, that come with a delicate elderflower and yoghurt sorbet, tiny meringues and a sliver of sablé Breton.
To accompany these good things, a shortish wine list covers all major grape varieties, with a focus on French wines.
Soizic Humbert has a lovely way about her and the welcome is French and warm; her staff are relaxed - enough chat but not too much - and efficient, a good combination.
All this and good value too. No wonder Canteen pleases all of the people, all of the time.
