1n 1992, Cork chef Ross Lewis and front of house maestro Martin Corbett took a chance on the ‘wrong side of town’, opening a fine dining restaurant in a Georgian basement on Parnell Square. Despite the naysayers, the effervescent duo stuck to their guns, matching instinct with talent, graft and determination to create one of Ireland’s greatest restaurants.
27 years have passed and, not once, have standards slipped or popularity waned at this bastion of modern Irish cooking. The excellence is found everywhere, from the warm welcome at the door to the effusive staff, the stylish dining rooms and the luxurious table settings.
From the moment you arrive you can sense the experience is going to be extra special. With Martin’s retirement in 2017, Ross took over Chapter One with his wife, Jessica. Since 2015 he has been joined in the kitchen by talented head chef Eric Matthews, who works with Ross to ensure lunch, dinner or a pre-theatre meal at this Dublin restaurants a stand-out experience.
Together the duo focus on ingredients, working together to deliver superb ingredients, intense flavour combinations and exquisitely cooked food. Menus loyally follow the seasons, and the team works with the finest growers, producers and farmers in the country.
Menus might include choices of ravioli of foie gras with pistachio, globe artichoke and Gubbeen pancetta or organic salmon, smoked to order by the sea in Howth, served with Lambay crab pancake, fresh peas and cherry blossom vinaigrette. A colourful salad of Irish beetroot, includes crapaudine, the world’s oldest beet variety, with charred baby cucumber, watermelon and St Tola goats’ cheese, while salt marsh duck is served with umami hits of salted caper flower, stuffed endive and bonito flavoured sesame.
Desserts, often quirky and always exquisite, are prepared by pastry maestro Darren Hogarty. Think delicate flavours and textures of Irish milk and honey or a warm 66% chocolate mousse with flavours of Guinness.
The drinks offering at Chapter One has always been exceptional, and there’s a constant effort to innovate and improve. The comfy little bar makes a lovely place to enjoy a pre-dinner drink, of which the choice is tantalising. One of the first restaurants to switch to an Irish-only gin menu, you’ll also find other Irish inspiration on offer. Diners might currently find a signature cocktail, like Blackberry Royal on offer as an aperitif. A glass of Laurent Perrier Brut topped with Móinéir Irish blackberry wine, it’s a seasonal interpretation that embodies Chapter One’s pioneering spirit.
Should you only want to drink one glass of wine with dinner, yet like sharing dishes with your date, don’t be surprised if you’re offered two small pours of a red and white, allowing you to enjoy the matching experience to the full, without overdoing it on your wine intake. It’s thoughtful touches like these, overseen by charming restaurant manager Danny Desmond and his team of sommeliers, that makes every meal here so enjoyable.
The energy in the room is no coincidence. The welcoming buzz, the warm engagement of exemplary staff, the slickly choreographed service, the well-judged wine experience, the pretty as a picture dishes, the genius flavour plays, the purity of ingredients, the jaw-dropping synergy of everything. If running a restaurant were something you could learn from a textbook, then Chapter One wrote the book. Flawless, fabulous and always fun.
