With its enviable location overlooking St Stephen’s Green, the dining room of this handsome Georgian building is both elegant and impressive. A sister to the much feted Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, Co Waterford, this urban outpost is a fashionable and bustling lunch and dinner spot.
The split-level dining room hasn’t changed very much since Richard Corrigan ran it as Bentley’s, with its high ceilings and interesting light fittings. Tables are dressed in crisp linen with good silverware and glasses, setting the tone for a fine dining experience.
This Dublin restaurants got a firm emphasis on seafood, with an appealing selection of shellfish specials on offer, perhaps Galway mussels with white wine, garlic and parsley or a vast seafood platter. Main choices include a selection of risottos, market fish like wild seabass or black sole on the bone and a few meaty offerings, perhaps filet of beef and Skeaghanore duck.
The cooking by Head Chef Sean Smith and his team has flair and dishes are stylishly presented, while a competent sommelier oversees an interesting wine list which offers great choice by the glass.
Overall, staff are professional and efficient, with the dining experience enhanced by service that leaves a pleasing feeling of having been very well looked after.
An excellent and very good value Sunday lunch is especially noteworthy, when families are well catered for.
Upstairs there’s a smart bar for pre- or post-dinner drinks, which has retained its original aviation theme developed in memory of Dr Tony Ryan, and this boutique hotel also has a private dining room overlooking the Green as well as ten stylish bedrooms.
*** In response to the Covid-19 restrictions, The Cliff Townhouse has taken full advantage of head chef Sean Smith’s skill with seafood. Top-notch dishes such as their Family Fish Pie can be collected pre-cooked and ready to eat, or chilled and with clear cooking instructions to produce hunks of perfectly cooked white fish and generous prawns in an elegantly creamy leek sauce subtly bolstered by smoked fish. Designed to sate four hungry souls, the pie comes with a spanking fresh salad and dressing and a bottle of smart house white wine, all for €57. Other cooked dishes from the takeaway menu include fish croquettes (€6) or tempura prawns with an avocado, lime and black pepper dressing (€14) – or alternatively their CLIFF Heat at Home meal kits (€32.50 per person for three courses) are as elegant as they are easy to assemble. As with most call and collect offers, you can pre-book in advance to secure your time slot. Then it’s as simple as parking outside and having your dinner delivered by gloved-up staff who will wipe down your car boot afterwards – which, in these strangest of times, is the new-normal equivalent to attentive service details like keeping water topped up and linen crumb-free.
