Georgina Campbell
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The latest venture by Sheerin Wilde of Donnybrook's much-missed Avalon, The Harbour Kitchen is an appealing destination and, with its emphasis on fish and seafood, a welcome addition to the dining choices in the Greystones area.
With exposed brick walls and stained glass details softly lit by candles, dark wood beams against a clean white ceiling and a plush cream and blue carpet underfoot, it welcomes guests in with a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Arrive with extra time to stop in the quiet, candlelit bar for a pre-dinner drink before continuing on to your table. The first of two dining rooms is snug and romantic, with the second, larger and slightly more raucous room ideal for group bookings. Staff are friendly, attentive without fussing and well-trained.
Menus here pay homage to fresh fish and seafood, and dishes are well conceived and beautifully presented. With a selection featuring oysters, cockles, scallops, octopus and cured salmon, John Dory, monkfish, cod, mussels and wild halibut, there's plenty to choose from. Meat-lovers are catered for with a trule gorgeous beef arancini starter and a choice of chicken or steak for mains. Vegan and veggie diners could do with a bit more choice, but what is here is creative and shows nice attention to detail: harissa-glazed aubergine on the starters list, served with cannellini bean hummus and dukkah, and baked swede with grilled oyster mushrooms, confit leeks, truffle dressing and walnuts to follow.
A recent addition to Greystones (since December 2023), The Harbour Kitchen shows promising signs of sticking around for good – a definite win for a town that has been crying out for a proper seafood restaurant.
