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Gleeson's

Robert and Alex Gleeson’s fine restaurant has a discreet, smartly-maintained frontage and rather mysterious interior, with dark woods and deep, rich tones in furnishings which exude quality and include many original touches (such as beautifully simple slate place mats).

Robert’s cooking style is modern French and his experience in famous kitchens - The Dorchester, for example - should give an idea of what to expect. His menus, which offer about seven choices on each course on the à la carte and three on the early dinner menu, are not over-elaborate but this is emphatically fine dining albeit with a pleasingly relaxed tone that makes it feel welcoming and accessible to all.

Local produce, like Skeaghanore duck, from Ballydehob, is showcased in dishes such as a crisp slow roasted Skeaghanore duck leg with chorizo & white bean cassoulet and braised red cabbage - or you might try an updated classic main course of roast loin of monkfish wrapped in Parma ham served with herb cous cous, spinach tian and a light Indian cream sauce.

Vegetarian dishes are imaginative (grilled vegetable, feta and pasta gateaux with red pepper & cherry tomao compote and crisp polenta, perhaps) and classical desserts include delicious home-made ice creams (a speciality of the house), or local farmhouse cheeses, served with home-made crackers, are a tempting alternative.

Precise cooking and perfectly balanced flavours characterise the cooking throughout and a meal is a restorative experience; classically trained chefs are an increasingly rare treasure these days and cooking of this calibre is a treat, especially when accompanied by pleasing surroundings and friendly professional service, as it is here.

This fine restaurant has deservedly earned a loyal following, and reservations are strongly recommended. Prices are fair throughout and the early dinner menu offers outstanding value.

A carefully selected, wide-ranging and very informative wine list kicks off with champagnes and champagne cocktails and a lovely selection of wines by the glass; the main list is arranged by style, with tasting notes and the half bottle selection is well chosen.

Seats 45; not suitable for children under 7 yrs. D Tue-Sat, 6-9.30. Set 2/3 course D with coffee €26.50/35 (6-7pm Fri/Sat & 6-9.30pm Tue-Thurs); also á la carte. House wine from around €20. SC 10% on groups 6+. Closed Sun (except bank hol weekends) & Mon; bank hols, 24-26 Dec. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser. **Next door, on the first floor, Robert and Alex Gleeson have teamed up with another well known chef, Mark Kirby, to open Mio (023 58571, a bright and confident pizza, pasta and steak restaurant; with an emphasis on quality ingredients and simplicity, it’s open for long hours (Wed-Sun, 12-10) this is a relaxed place that complements Gleesons and will have wide appeal.

Directions:

Town centre; next door to Scannels Pub.