At the heart of this impressive new hotel there is indeed a castle and, although it does not have views of Lough Eske, the setting should not disappoint as it is surrounded by beautiful woodland and formal gardens.
With a history dating back to a castle built by the O’Donnells (founders of Donegal town) in the late 1400s, it is no stranger to add-ons and reconstructions, so the recent restoration of a Victorian castle (destroyed by fire in 1939) seems totally in keeping. And it has been very well done.
Not only does the luxurious castle itself have great atmosphere and presence, with its spacious public rooms, impressive fireplaces and leaded windows, but the new sections are well conceived to be easy on the eye as well as being supremely practical in use.
On arrival, for example, it’s a pleasure to see how well-chosen sandstone subtly links the colour of new sections to the castle frontage, and there are similar examples everywhere – notably the leisure centre and spa, which is in the old walled garden and designed to look like the old lean-to glasshouses, with the swimming pool in a lovely bright garden setting.
The 96 bedrooms and suites vary according to their position in the property, with most luxurious castle suites offering a sumptuous blend of antique charm and modern comfort, while others have a simpler, more contemporary feel; all are stylishly appointed, with lovely bathrooms and all the modern extras including wi/fi.
Conference/Banqueting (300/250); small meetings (14-40); business centre, secretarial services, free broadband wi/fi. Rooms 96 (7 suites, 8 junior suites, 5 family, 40 ground floor, 3 disabled, all no smoking); children welcome (under 3s free in parents room, cot available free of charge, baby sitting arranged). Dogs permitted (stay in bedrooms, no charge). Spa, Fitness Centre and Pool, Golf Nearby
Cedars Restaurant
The restaurant - which has woodland views and opens onto a large slate terrace - is bright and luxurious yet contemporary, with lots of deep buttoning in comfortable bucket chairs and matching wall coverings, and a combination of darkwood tables with dark moss green runners and others set with crisp white linen cloths and green linen napkins: a perfect backdrop for an exceptional dining experience.
An à la carte menu offering about eight dishes on each course combines a wealth of fresh, locally sourced and sometimes organic produce – resulting in perfectly cooked and innovative dishes presented with flair.
Begin, perhaps, with a beautifully balanced tomato and red pepper soup, or local Killybegs mussels with roasted garlic, fennel and Irish butter – followed by simply cooked main dishes such as seared rack of lamb with cabbage parcel, garlic potatoes and red wine jus; a great dish, the lamb beautifully pink and a big cabbage parcel with a filling of pepper, mushroom, courgette and shallots.
An extensive list of world wines is offered to match the food.
Staff are pleasant and helpful but, in the Guide’s experience, slightly disorganised – a little extra training could make a big difference to the dining experience. Nevertheless, with its combination of exceptional cooking and reasonable prices, this restaurant is quietly taking its place as one of the most distinguished in Ireland.
Not surprisingly Cedars is often fully booked, particularly during the summer months when hotel occupancy is high, so advanced reservation is strongly advised.
*Informal meals are also available daily in the Gallery Bar, 11am-12 midnight.
Seats 100. D daily 6-10pm (to 9.30pm Sun), L Sun 12-4pm. Sun L €35; set D €45, also a la carte. Children welcome (high chair, children's menu, baby changing facilities). Closed at certain times off season, please call to check. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
