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Rachel Gaffney’s Letter From Texas - The People You Will Meet

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas reflects on time spent at home in Ireland last summer – and how it’s still the people that keep visitors coming back

I spent four days in Wexford on my last trip home to Ireland, and very quickly I was reminded that the best moments in Ireland aren’t usually the ones you plan. They’re the ones that unfold when you do not pack your day. After so many years on the road, I know Ireland will reveal herself to you, if you give her the time.
My weekend began in Ballymoney. I was spending two nights with my good friend at her family beach house, a weekend to walk the beaches and, of course, for me, a chance to do what I love when I’m in Ireland and that is to swim wherever and whenever!
That Saturday evening, Caitriona surprised me with the most lovely birthday treat, dinner at The Duck Terrace Restaurant at Marlfield House, a luxury Country House Hotel outside Gorey. I'm embarrassed to say I had never visited Marlfield House before now. However, that being said, I did plan on spending four days in Wexford to do some much needed research. The restaurant is located in restored courtyard buildings including a coach house, potting shed and gardener’s tool shed situated in the hotel grounds and overlooking the beautiful kitchen garden. It’s easy to see why it has been a Georgina Campbell Atmospheric Restaurant of the Year, and both the food and service were excellent.

The following day, I made my way to Kilmore Quay. My plan was to have lunch at Little Saltee, the fish and chip restaurant by the harbour. Catherine Dundon, the proprietress of Dunbrody Country House gave me this lunch recommendation and I am very grateful to her. On this particular day in September the weather was simply perfect, and so, after I ordered my food, I sat outside at a communal picnic table. I chatted with people who had travelled from different parts of the country to attend a literary festival, called ‘Write By the Sea’ I had not heard of this festival before now. According to their website, “ It’s a boutique literary festival set in the scenic fishing village of Kilmore Quay. Over the past decade, we’ve welcomed some of Ireland’s finest writers and introduced exciting new voices, all in a setting as warm and welcoming as the stories they celebrate. Whether you’re a reader, writer, or simply curious, there’s a place for you at Ireland’s friendliest literary festival.” I soon learned there certainly was a place for everyone at this festival. Seated across the table from me was the loveliest little girl named Harlow. She was eight years old and was from from Harold’s Cross in Dublin. Harlow is writing her fist book and attended a few workshops. I told her I wanted to purchase it when it comes out. As we all sat in the warm sunshine and chatted I learned this creative little apple did not fall from the tree. Both parents were equally as creative as they described to me how they had converted an old factory into their family home. I was utterly captivated by the description of the bedroom they had designed and created for Harlow. A place for her to create and rest an thrive. Harlow impressed me. And then 6 weeks after I returned to Dallas, I saw a promotion for House and Home Magazine, November and December edition and who is on the cover, but Zoe Carney, Harlow’s Mum ! Check out @houseofindi on Instagram.

Then a small mishap - my tyre blew out. After waiting four hours for the AA, I finally made my way to Dunbrody House (I never said life on the road was without it’s pitfalls!) Sadly, I arrived too late for dinner but nonetheless, I had a moment to eat a bowl of soup and enjoy a glass of Elderflower Tonic. That night, cradled in a sumptuously soft bed, I drifted off to sleep with ease. After breakfast, Catherine and I walked the grounds of Dunbrody House. We walked beneath the branches of a dozen hazelnut trees, a present Catherine had gifted her husband, Chef Kevin Dundon, some years back, past the blackcurrant bushes and stopped at a clearing where plans are a foot for Saunas and Morning Yoga retreats. There is a 4km (2½ mile) coastal walk from the hotel, revealing stunning views of the Estuary and the Hook Peninsula. As if all this was not enough, you could enjoy some cooking classes in their famous cooking school. This Georgian property invites you in and compels you to stay a while, walk the grounds and exhale.

Just twenty-five minutes away is Hook Lighthouse, the oldest operating lighthouse in the world. I stopped and intended to visit for a couple of hours, but instead stayed a lot longer! Larry Colgan is the GM for Hook Lighthouse. We walked across the rocks and he told me how important this lighthouse is for the local community. People come here to enjoy brunch or dinner in their café (also a Georgina Campbell award winner) or to host a family get together. As we made our way up to the watch room, he told me about their sunset tours. Imagine savouring a glass of something bubbly as you watch the spectacular panoramic views of the rolling seas stretching out before you and all while enjoying a stunning sunset across the Celtic Sea. Sadly, my time in Wexford drew to a close – and I was mindful that I had a 2½ hour drive ahead of me to Cork. And then Larry suggested I take the ferry from Wexford to Waterford, cutting out a considerable amount of drive time. And so, I did. I boarded the Passage East Ferry at Ballyhack, County Wexford and it took just a 5-minute scenic crossing to reach Passage East in County Waterford. My time in Wexford evolved at a pace that allowed me to discover, learn and meet people. It firmly cemented my resolve to return to the sunny southeast.