THE DARINA ALLEN COLUMN - Slow Food in Clare

Darina has been on her travels again, in search of everything that’s best in natural food, sustainability and biodiversity – and this time she headed for County Clare

On our way to Co. Clare for the Slow Food Festival in Lisdoonvarna in May, we made a diversion to visit Tory Hill Farm near Croom. I've been following and admiring the work of Hannah Quin Mulligan, her mother and grandmother on Instagram for ages, three generations of powerful women farmers working together. Tory Hill is a small organic dairy farm with 12 cows, 9 Jersey that are milked once a day. The raw milk is sold in glass bottles from refrigerated containers in their Farm Shop on Friday and Saturday mornings from 11am to 3pm, but the milk sometimes runs out even earlier.

When we arrived a little before 11.30am, the car park was already full and there was a constant queue of people. Funnily, mostly young men, many Gen Z's, (could there be a Erling Haaland effect who believes that raw milk and real food are the key to his goal scoring) but also families with children, excited to see the cows happily grazing in the rich pasture. A joy to see people going out of their way to source raw milk for the flavour and nutrient value and so good for the gut biome.

So difficult for small dairy farmers to make a decent living nowadays but Hannah can charge €4 litre for her beautiful organic milk. She also sells butter, buttermilk, milk kefir, homemade ice cream and preserves, pork and beef from the Farm and handmade soap made from the tallow. The Farm Shop also stocks fresh sourdough from the local bakery and there are a few tables out in the gravelled whitewashed courtyard where one can enjoy a convivial chat over coffee and brownies and/or a glass of raw milk. Pink Clematis Montaña was spilling over the wall, the sun was shining…

Half an hour further on, we found Power's Butchers in Clarecastle where Cassie and Nick McCarthy from Lúnasa Farm sell the organic beef and pork from their farm. Every scrap from nose to tail was utilised, rich broth from the bones, charcuterie, tallow from fat and for soap making. It's so heartening to see the growing number of small farmers selling directly to the public from the Farm Gate or Farm Shop. Close by near Kilfenora, there's Inagh, the home of the fresh St Tola Goat Cheese where Siobhán Ní Ghairbhith and her team have been making several award-winning goats milk cheeses since 1999.

The 21st Slow Food Festival organised by Birgitta Hedin-Curtin, Michael Gleeson and their team in conjunction with Burren Beo, The Burren Ecotourism Network, Burren and Cliffs of Moher GeoPark, was a terrific success and provided me with a delicious taste of County Clare and boy, is there a lot going on in County Clare.

We couldn't leave the area without another visit to Moy Hill Organic Farm, always inspirational and Hugo's Artisan Bakery https://www.instagram.com/hugos_lahinch/ in Lahinch for some of the very best sourdough bread and viennoiserie in the country. Wow, how fortunate are the locals in that area to have access to this food and so much more.

We also swung by the Ailwee Caves not just for the spectacular caves but for the delicious Gouda type Burren Gold Cheese they make. I particularly love the cumin flavoured Gouda and the two year-old mature cheese which we made a special detour to collect, before our return home, after enjoying Gregans Castle - who kindly shared this lovely recipe that was part of our meal there.

RECIPES:

Gregans Castle Miso Cup, Beetroot, Apple and Smoked Eel 
Thank you to Gregans Castle for sharing this delicious recipe – one of the amuse-bouche on the menu. Serves 8 approx. as a canapé

Pickled Dice Ingredients
300g cider vinegar
200g sugar
100g water
1 granny smith apple, peeled and finely diced
1 medium red beetroot, peeled and finely diced
Method
1. First make the pickle liquid. Bring the vinegar, sugar and water to the boil, remove from the heat.
2. Pour half of the hot pickle liquid over the apple dice, leave overnight if possible.
3. In a small pot, add the other half and the beetroot dice. Bring to a low simmer and cook the dice until al dente, about 10 minutes. Let cool.
Beetroot/Apple Purée Ingredients
2 granny smith apple, peeled, and finely grated
2 red beetroot, also peeled and finely grated
sugar, 10% weight of the combine weight of the apple and beetroot
salt and apple cider vinegar to season
Method
1. Add the sugar to a pot that will comfortably hold everything. On a medium heat allow the sugar to turn to a dark caramel.
2. Add the apple, the sugar may solidify in clumps, but as the apples release their liquid and heat, these will dissolve back into the mixture.
3. After a few moments add the beetroot and mix well.
4. Lightly cover with tinfoil and leave on a low-medium heat until nearly all the liquid is dissolved and the beetroot is cooked and soft.
5. Blend on high speed until smooth, season with salt and vinegar.
Cup Mixture Ingredients
Pickled Apple and Beetroot Dice
Caramel/Apple Purée
Lough Neagh smoked eel, diced
Method
1. In a bowl, add equal quantities of the apple/beetroot dice and diced eel.
2. Add the puree and mix through, you are not looking for a loose mixture, the puree should merely bind the elements together.
Miso Cream Ingredients
1 litre cream
60g white miso
Method
1. Add the cream and miso to a pot, bring gently to the boil and reduce. (Too much heat will cause it to boil over).
2. Reduce until it is almost reduced by half. It should have almost a custard-like thickness. Season with salt and fresh miso if needed. Pass through a fine sieve.
3. If you have a whipped cream siphon, fill with the mixture and charge it with one gas canister.
4. If not, reduce it slightly less, and when serving aerate it with a hand blender and spoon over. Either way keep the mixture warm, but not boiling hot, for serving.
To Serve
Place a spoonful of the apple/eel/beetroot mix in the bottom of a small bowl or cup.
Pour over the miso cream, either by siphon or spooned over.
In the restaurant it is finished with a dusting of beetroot powder, and a few drops of oil infused with roasted eel trim.

Gouda Cheese Croquettes 
We used Aillwee Caves Gouda (see image) but one could use an aged Cheddar.
Makes 25-30, depending on size
Ingredients
450ml milk
few slices of carrot and onion
1 small bay leaf
sprig of thyme
4 parsley stalks
200g roux (see recipe) made with equal quantities of flour and butter (110g of each). Method
Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally
.2 egg yolks, preferably free range
225g grated mature Gouda, Aillwee Caves or Coolea Gouda
a pinch of cayenne
½ tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp freshly chopped chives (optional)
salt and freshly ground pepper
seasoned white flour, preferably unbleached
beaten egg
fine dried white breadcrumbs
Accompaniment: Ballymaloe Country Relish

Method
Put the cold milk into a saucepan with the carrot, onion and herbs, bring slowly to the boil, simmer for 3-4 minutes, turn off the heat and allow to infuse for about 10 minutes if you have enough time. Strain the flavourings, rinse them and add to a stock if you have one on the go. Bring the milk back to the boil, whisk in the roux bit by bit; it will get very thick but persevere. (The roux always seems like a lot too much, but you need it all so don't decide to use less).
Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cook for 1-2 minutes on a gentle heat, then remove from the heat, stir in the egg yolks, cheese, pinch of cayenne, mustard and optional chives. Taste and correct the seasoning. Spread out on a wide plate to cool.
When the mixture is cold or at least cool enough to handle, shape into balls about the size of a golf ball or 25g (1oz) approx. Roll first in seasoned flour, then in beaten egg and then in fine breadcrumbs. Chill until firm but bring back to room temperature before cooking otherwise they may burst. Just before serving, heat a deep fryer to 170°C/325°F and cook the croquettes until crisp and golden. Drain on kitchen paper and serve hot with a green salad and perhaps some Ballymaloe Country Relish.
Note: The cooked cheese croquettes can be kept warm in an oven for up to 30 minutes. They can also be frozen and reheated in an oven.

Pastéis de Nata (Portuguese Custard Tarts) 
Pasteis de Nata, the famous Portuguese custard tarts. This is not the recipe for Hugo's gorgeous tarts but it's also delicious. Makes 24
Ingredients
1 large egg
2 egg yolks
115g golden caster sugar
2 tbsp cornflour
400ml whole milk
2 tsp vanilla extract (optional)
a sprinkling of ground cinnamon (optional)
900g puff pastry
Lightly grease 2 x 12 muffin tins.
Preheat the oven to 230°C/Gas Mark 8.
Method
Put the egg, yolks, sugar and cornflour in a saucepan and whisk, gradually add the milk and whisk until smooth.
Cook on a medium heat and stir constantly with a whisk until the mixture thickens and comes to the boil, continue to cook for 2 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat, stir in the vanilla extract and cinnamon if using.
Transfer to a Pyrex bowl, allow to cool. Cover with parchment paper to prevent a skin from forming – prick here and there to allow steam to escape.
Roll the chilled puff pastry into a 3mm thick sheet, stamp out 7.5cm discs. Press into the muffin tins.
Spoon a generous dessertspoon of the cool custard into each pastry case. Bake in the preheated oven for 16-20 minutes or golden on top and slightly charred. Allow to cool in the tins for 5 minutes then remove to a wire rack. Eat warm or at room temperature.

*** RAW ORGANIC MILK
Where to find organic raw milk?
Despite the growing demand, there are just five farmers selling raw cow's milk and one selling raw goat's milk.
• Crawford's Farm, Tipperary – https://www.crawfordsfarm.ie
• Tory Hill House and Farm, Limerick -  https://www.toryhillhouse.ie
• Glen Farm (goat's milk), Waterford - https://www.facebook.com/p/Glen-Farm
• Gleann Bui Farm, Mayo – https://www.gleannbuifarm.ie
• The Grazing Goat (cow's & goat's milk) Monaghan -https://www.facebook.com/p/The-Grazing-Goat-Monaghan
At the Ballymaloe Cookery School Farm Shop, we have raw organic milk from our small herd of Jersey cows as well as homemade organic butter, buttermilk, natural yoghurt and milk kefir. All sold in glass bottles and jars, cultured butter in parchment paper...as well as seasonal produce from the farm and 48 hour natural sourdough from the Bread Shed. We have raw milk every day but please telephone ahead to check in advance of making a trip - 021 4646785. Open Monday - Saturday from 9.30am – 5.30pm.

JUNE DATES TO NOTE at Ballymaloe Cookery School

Introduction to Chocolate with Richard Healy on Tuesday, 16th June 2026
Richard has been our resident chocolate expert here at the school for several years now.
This fun afternoon demonstration class will provide an introduction to chocolate making. Richard explains the importance of beginning with high quality chocolate, how to temper your chocolate and how to make delicious handmade chocolates in fun moulds. He will make several types of chocolates including some wonderful fillings.
We will also provide a list of suppliers of good chocolate and where to source a selection of chocolate moulds. For more, see https://www.ballymaloecookeryschool.ie

Forgotten Skills
A Morning at Our Micro-Dairy & Learning to Make Butter, Yoghurt and Labneh at Ballymaloe Organic Farm School on Wednesday, 17th June 2026.
Join Darina Allen, and the team at the Ballymaloe Organic Micro-Dairy for a hands-on introduction to the lost art of working with fresh milk. Begin with a visit to the Ballymaloe Jersey herd before heading into the dairy and milking parlour to see where the day-to-day operations take place, and where all of the school's dairy products are made. The emphasis of the course is on learning the forgotten skill of how to turn fresh milk into butter, yogurt, and a simple labneh using straightforward techniques you can easily repeat at home. Guided step by step, you'll make butter, culture yogurt, and create a fresh cheese, gaining confidence as you go and picking up tips on timing, texture, and flavour along the way. It's a relaxed, practical session that's all about getting hands-on and reconnecting with simple, time-tested methods.

https://www.ballymaloecookeryschool.ie
https://www.cookingisfun.ie/