Michael Deane has always been ahead of the curve, so this new venture from the city's hospitality ace should come as no surprise to those who have watched in admiration as he constantly works his way sure-footedly around the evolving world of Belfast restaurants. Whether it's the finest of fine dining or something altogether more casual, he's always a leading light - and this latest enterprise, in partnership with his cousin, Karl Wilkinson (formerly of Macdonald's), shows the master of reinvention at his best in trendy East Belfast.
It's a perfect partnership, bringing together complementary experience over several decades. Karl Wilkinson is credited with saying that his reason for working with Macdonald's was to learn the business, and how wise was that. Now the sharp modern frontage of Flink stands proud alongside the new wave of smart eating houses on the Upper Newtownards Road, welcoming customers in to a different kind of burger experience.
The offering is simple, the setting is clean cut canteen with a classy finish. Menus are displayed on large screens at the back of the room, just like the chip shops of old. But that's where any old fashioned connection ends - unless, that is, you count the service from friendly staff who go the extra mile to guide and serve. And first timers unfamiliar with self-ordering in iPad pods (located at the entrance, so you order before finding a seat) might be glad of that, although they are very user friendly and, together with upbeat music and air conditioning, it's all been well thought out to create a very pleasant environment to sit in.
Simplicity is key. Lovely Smashed Beef Burgers is the promise and lovely Smashed Beef Burgers is what you get, along with simple sides, sweets and drinks (including bottled beers and wines embossed with Meat locker logos as in Michael’s other restaurants).
Milk yeast buns are the standard, super soft and so absorbent for the delicious freshly cooked burger juices. Beef is the (very good) norm and a popular Meatlocker variant, The Oklahoma, comes with bacon jam, pickle and rocket leaves,paired with fine onions and cheese. Chicken Tenders get a choice of dip - great with their chipotle ketchup and the roasted garlic aioli is also hard to pass on. Crunchy fries can be given the Cajun kick with cayenne pepper and a salt house mix.
Each burger is thoughtfully constructed, with great depth of flavour throughout - and, athough there is no kids menu, smaller appetites of all ages can have a one patty smashed burger, while the two-patty burger suits the average appetite and there's a 3-tiered version for the extra hungry. What you won't find here is much choice for vegetarians (and it would be nice to see more provenance too, although the quality is impeccable throughout); there's also little enough cutlery for conveying this finger-lickin good food but, while this and recycled containers (including coffee cups) add to the canteen feel, it’s upmarket and thoughtfully done, so - like the offer of different portion sizes - it adds up to a feel-good no-waste policy.
Everything - your burger, dip and a side per person - is swiftly served on an individual plate, lined with Flink embossed paper. More drinks (milkshakes like Strawberry and Chocolate add to the fun of party style eating) and extras like simple desserts - perhaps a cookie with soft scoop ice cream, or a crunchy Sundae - can be added via the pod system at any stage, you just take a numbered marker for your table and the very pleasant staff deliver your choice quickly and efficiently.
Although a modern take on the Cafeteria concept, Flink is more than that. It’s a confident new variant on the contemporary eating scene, offering quality fast food with 'sofiticaticon', deliciously tasty and memorable in its simplicity. An enterprising diversion for the Deanes portfolio, it stands well alongside the great range of dining options available in Ballyhackamore and - thanks to its seriously tasty food, positive vibes and energetic staff - is sure to succeed.
