Stephen McArdle and Morgan VanderKamer moved down from Dublin to establish the lovely Barrows Keep restaurant in nearby Graiguenamanagh in 2017 and then, when this exciting venue in the former Bassett's premises became available in 2019, the move to Thomastown was an irresistible next step for this gifted couple - and, best of all, they've been able to keep up with the extraordinary range of local producers that they have been getting to know since arriving in Co Kilkenny.
A spacious premises in a fine old building, the setting allows Stephen to showcase his outstanding cooking to the full - and, as always, the talent in the kitchen is complemented by Morgan's supervision of the room along with her renowned wine list.
On arrival, a cosy bar with tables set up for casual dining is very inviting - and the menu of enticing snacks may well be enough to bring you back another time just to sample more of Stephen's cooking and enjoy a glass of wine.
The restaurant is in a large high ceiling room with an open kitchen pass, where Stephan can be seen cooking. With white walls and white tops on the well spaced tables, it is very bright and might seem a little cold in winter (adding a bit of colour and some soft furnishings would work wonders) but, thanks to the exceptional cooking and caring service the overall experience is relaxing.
Produce is king at Barrows Keep and the mission statement reads: "We are dedicated to working with local producers and suppliers; bringing farm to table. Our menu changes weekly, focusing on seasonal, organic and free-range produce. A sense of community drives our restaurant setting and menu ethos, a love of food and a passion for excellent hospitality is what we bring to the table."
A wonderful philosophy and one that explains the exceptional flavour of Stanley's beautifully cooked food - not fussy or showy, just thoughtfully created with each dish outstanding, very seasonal and enticingly presented.
All this and immaculate, warmly professional service - and, for many, the highlight of a visit here (and a speciality that brings connoisseurs from a wide area) is the wine offering. They work with about a dozen wine suppliers and Morgan's list, which changes constantly, is carefully selected to encourage guests to try less familiar wines - they use the Coravin system, enabling them to offer special wines by the glass. Morgan still hosts her wine club as often as possible too, and they take part in local events such as Savour Kilkenny (late October).
All round Barrows Keep is a wonderful destination, and a must-visit for any food - or wine - lover coming to this hauntingly beautiful area.
