The smartly branded 'Paul Hynes La Cote Seafood Restaurant’ on the corner of Custom House Quay will catch the eye of hungry by-passers, but it is already a destination of choice for a loyal band of local customers and returning visitors to the town.
It's easy to find and, being almost within touching distance of tidal waters of the Slaney Estuary, well located for a seafood restaurant - and a curiosity worth mentioning is that it is also just a few yards away from a unique feature of Wexford Town, ie the quayside railway tracks that the Rosslare train passes along five times a day, right in front of the building.
Although it is his first restaurant, Paul Hynes already had a following in the area and it was well earned. With experience at some of the top restaurants in Britain and Ireland under his belt - and stints in several some interesting local kitchens - Paul is that most welcome of chefs, bringing the training and expertise associated with fine dining combined with the down to earth informality, accessibility and connection to seaonal foods that creates an enjoyable sense of locality.
From early evening, the attractive L-shaped room overlooking the mussel boats in the harbour comes to life.The polished wooden tables are set up with white linen napkins, night light, good quality glassware and contemporary white china. Guests are warmly welcomed with chilled water and a couple of very good breads along with the menus and an explanation of the daily specials which are chalked up on a big blackboard - a smart version of rib-eye steak with unusual trimmings such as oxtail croquettes, for example, or Wexford lamb accompanied by courgette & basil puree and a red pepper ragu, and of course a special fish dish.
All menus include three or four really good fish dishes - lemon sole with carrot puree, citrus nage and orange reduction, for example and pan-fried John Dory - which sounds simple enough, but when accompanied by squid ink bulgar, caper and raisin cabbage and cauliflower, this perfectly cooked and beautifully presented dish hits the high notes. But creativity and balance are the signature on every dish - and vegetarians will be very happy here, as vegetables are handled with the greatest of respect and both the side dishes and vegetarian dishes are outstanding. Commitment to local produce is seen in the recognition of suppliers, who are both name checked on dishes and formally credited in a supplier list, which gives a real sense of place.
Desserts are a high point and include a range of house ice creams - cinnamon, perhaps, or salted caramel - that add an extra touch of luxury to impressively upbeat classics like mango baked Alaska or a 70% spiced chocolate fondant with chocolate tuile and there's a handsome Irish cheese board offered too.
Paul Hynes offers outstanding cooking and good value, including reasonably priced wines - and, thanks to a welcoming and very efficient front of house team led by Paul's wife Edwina, who know many of the customers and clearly enjoy what they do, a visit to La Cote will be memorable for the whole experience and not just its excellent food.
