WINE EXPERIENCES - TEN OF THE BEST

The arrival of autumn brings with it a return to grown up pleasures after the long summer holidays – so what could be better than a short break with a great wine experience as the theme?

Ballymaloe House
Shanagarry Midleton Co Cork

Ireland’s greatest country house, Ballymaloe has earned a unique position as a byword for the best of Irish hospitality. Good food has always been central to Ballymaloe – indeed it has become so much the focus that it is easy to forget the important contribution made by wine, beginning with the late Ivan Allen, when he and Myrtle first opened in 1964, and now under the caring management of his grandson Sacha Whelan and Sommelier Colm McCan. Like all the best wine lists, the wine offering at Ballymaloe is a constantly evolving work in progress, and wine weekend courses are offered regularly, in both the house and nearby Ballymaloe Cookery School, including the enormously popular twice-yearly intensive wine weekends with wine writer Mary Dowey –held in Ballymaloe’s beautiful venue, The Grainstore. Colm ‘simply mad about wine’ McCan, revels in his job and has overseen development of the ’new’ wine cellar, which is in the ancient rock foundation of the old castle and not only naturally temperature controlled, but atmospheric with it; lined with new wine storage bins made from Ballymaloe beechwood by Sacha Whelan, it is effectively spotlit and well worth a visit. (They also have a bank of practical Eurocave temperature controlled wine cabinets for dining room service.) And now, using an Apple iPad, they have the wine list in electronic format – is there no end to the bright ideas they can come up with at Ballymaloe? [Ballymaloe House was selected for the GCGuides annual Wine Award, 2010.]


Knockranny House Hotel & Spa
Knockranny Westport Co Mayo

A good location, comfortable accommodation, caring staff and excellent amenities are all reasons to stay here but, increasingly, it is the food and wine offering that attracts guests. The Fern Grill Restaurant – a large, tiered restaurant designed to allow all tables a view across the town to Croagh Patrick – has undemanding décor, allowing the memorable cooking of the talented and critically acclaimed head chef, Seamus Commons, to take centre stage; his playful cooking takes local ingredients and classic French technique as its starting point but has been allowed develop its own individualism, taking a particular delight in contrasts of flavour, texture and colour. Then there is the wine list which, with over 60 wines listed, is one of the most extensive in Mayo; all the major wine areas are represented and the Cellar list offers fine wines, mainly from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Guests are welcome to tour the walk-through wine cellar, and the hotel frequently offers themed food and wine events.


Kellys Resort Hotel & Spa
Rosslare Co Wexford

Kelly’s has so many special features that it’s a gamble which comes to mind first: the hotel’s stunning art collection is a major highlight – but, equally, so is Bill Kelly’s promise of “A Cellar Full of Surprises”, which is best appreciated from the bistro bar, where you can see right into the hotel's cellar. The wine list is renowned for being informative, meticulously sourced, always changing, and excellent value. Many wines are directly imported - some from Bill’s father-in-law Paul Avril’s estate in Chateauneuf-du-Pape - and there are treats a-plenty in the collection. 


King Sitric Fish Restaurant & Accommodation
East Pier Howth Co Dublin

Named after an 11th century Norse King of Dublin who had close links with Howth, Aidan and Joan MacManus' striking harbourside establishment was stablished by leading chef Aidan MacManus as a fine dining restaurant in 1971. It is now run by his son Declan and his wife Sue, who have made it the more casual - but equally distinctive - destination that it is today. Fine dining may no longer be offered, but the popular contemporary Seafood Bar continues the family’s longstanding commitment to the best of seasonal, local produce and offers excellent, mainly seafood, dishes at very fair prices. Many of the dishes they are known for, including a wonderful shellfish bisque and their Meringue Sitric, feature on the new menus - and the famous house wine, Hugel Pinot Blanc from Alsace, still leads off the drinks list. 


Ashford Castle
Cong Co Mayo

There is nowhere like Ashford Castle - and, thanks to an exceptionally talented team headed up by Stefan Matz in the kitchen and Michaella  Brits front of house, the dining experience matches up to the magnificent backdrop. It is Ireland’s grandest castle hotel, with a history going back to the early 13th century; set in 350 acres of beautiful parkland, its essential characteristics are grandeur, formality and tranquillity. With panelled walls, oil paintings, suits of armour and magnificent fireplaces, it’s the perfect setting for an exceptional wine list – and it is indeed a stunning example of an old-fashioned grand hotel list. 


Longueville House
Mallow Co Cork

Chef William O’Callaghan, and his wife Aisling run this luxurious yet down-to-earth country house hotel overlooking the River Blackwater with warmth and professionalism. William, a dedicated Euro-Toques chef, is known for his commitment to the best seasonal, local produce – and it doesn’t get more local than this, with the river, farm and garden supplying fresh salmon in season, the famous Longueville lamb, and all the fruit and vegetables. Dining – in the cosy Presidents’ Restaurant and the lovely 19th century Turner conservatory alongside - is at the heart of everything at Longueville, and it’s a wonderfully romantic and interesting place to stay. Their wine list is renowned and they even make their own apple brandy ‘Eden’; this makes good use of extensive orchards and William has decided, with all the wet summers, it’s a better bet than the house wine “Coisreal Longueville” that his father, the late Michael O’Callaghan, persevered with valiantly despite the Irish weather. And Eden will do nicely.


The Twelve Hotel
Barna Village Galway Co Galway

If ever there was a place to go and indulge in wine, the current favourite has to be The Twelve. Named after Connemara’s Twelve Bens mountains, this hotel introduced contemporary style to a traditional area - and for General Manager Fergus O' Halloran, who is also the Sommelier, wine is clearly a passion. A passion which has brought recognition and success too, with recent accolades including the only Wine Spectator Award to be given in Ireland this year, and the third consecutive year for The Twelve. There’s a special focus on wine at the first floor restaurant, West, with wines displayed on temperature-controlled racks behind glass, and a champagne bar within the room. Wines are listed by grape variety, ‘with’ and ‘without skins’ and the list ranges wide, with detailed notes and pages of other drinks. West's signature event, the Vintner Dinner, is the "Jazzed About Wine" event where participants sip the newest wines to the sounds of smooth jazz.


Delphi Lodge
Leenane Co Galway

The high mountains around here create plenty of the rain that’s so beloved of fisherfolk, but, if fishing isn’t your reason for visiting, it’s good to know that the billiard table, the library and a serious wine list (great bottles at a very modest mark-up) can get visitors through a lot of wet days at Delphi. Famously, Peter Mantle’s ‘abnormally modest’ mark-ups reduce as the price (quality) rises; tasting notes are given for the wonderful house selection and, unusually, the main list has scores from Robert Parker, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast magazines instead. This wonderful sporting lodge was built in the early 19th-century by the Marquis of Sligo, and is a joy to visit.


Sheen Falls Lodge
Kenmare Co Kerry

Set in a 300-acre estate just across the river from Kenmare town, this luxurious hotel is beautifully located and, in true Kerry style, welcoming fires always burn in the handsome foyer and in several of the spacious, elegantly furnished reception rooms. The restaurant, La Cascade, is designed in tiers to take full advantage of the waterfalls – which provide a dramatic backdrop for Executive Chef Heiko Reibandt’s fine food when floodlit at night. The atmospheric wine cellar is home to what may well be the most extensive hotel wine collection in Ireland, and is an understandable point of pride. Housing over 10,000 bottles, it details over 950 wines, with particular strengths in the classic European regions, especially Burgundy and Bordeaux, and a fine collection of ports and dessert wines. You can visit it to choose your own bottle, and port may also be served there after dinner; a daily Sommelier’s tour of the cellar is offered, also wine themed weekend breaks.


Newport House
Newport Co Mayo

This distinctive creeper-clad Georgian House overlooking the river and quay, was the home of the O’Donnells, once the Earls of Tir Connell. Today it symbolises all that is best about the Irish country house, and has been especially close to the hearts of fishing people for many years. But, in the caring hands of the current owner, Kieran Thompson, and an outstanding staff, the warm hospitality of this wonderful house is accessible to all its guests, not least in shared enjoyment of the club-fender cosiness of the little back bar. And many come especially for Kieran’s renowned wine list, which adds an extra magic to a meal at Newport. It includes classic French wines - about 150 clarets from 1961-1996 vintages, a great collection of white and red burgundies, excellent Rhônes and a good New World collection too. The foundations of this cellar go back many decades to a time when Kieran was himself a guest at Newport; great wines are a passion for him and, while acknowledging that they are irreplaceable, he offers them to guests at far less than their current retail value. Great lists of this scale and quality are almost a thing of the past, so it is a matter of celebration that such a collection should belong to a generous spirit like Kieran, who takes pleasure in allowing others to share his passion.